No hub cast iron Imperfect vent connection

Discussion in 'General Plumbing Help' started by branimal, Apr 14, 2017.

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  1. Apr 18, 2017 #21

    branimal

    branimal

    branimal

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    The trap has to be right next to a joist for the tub I ordered.

    I had my tub drain and vent completely built out but frodo pointed out my crown vent.

    So I moved my wye further away from the trap. I can either fix this with a cut or try to refigure something else out. Im gonna try the cut bc I've got an extra 1/4 bend laying around.

    Just googled crown vents :
    "A "Crown Vent" is a vent that is located within 2 pipe diameters of the trap it is serving.

    When a vent is that close it is more subjected to fouling of hair, soap oils, grease, and other debris because; the flow of water does not have a chance to dissipate thus reaching the top of the pipe where the vent is during discharge causing premature failure. "
     
    frodo likes this.
  2. Apr 18, 2017 #22

    frodo

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    Last edited: Apr 18, 2017
  3. Apr 19, 2017 #23

    branimal

    branimal

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    I'll give the the 2 1/16th bends a shot. I'm gonna wait until the tub arrives before I drive myself nuts.
     
  4. Apr 19, 2017 #24

    frodo

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    we call that brain f====it

    buy 1 street 22 and 1 regular
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2017
  5. Apr 19, 2017 #25

    Mr_David

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    a couple question. Are you required to use cast iron pipe.

    after all that with the p-trap and vent, where does the pipe go I see a 90 turned down at the end. Does it turn again and change direction horizontally with another 90?
    Would seem to be easier to put a tapped santee at wall. Run the vent straight out of the top of the santee . Put a 90 on the bottom.
    Then use a DWV p-trap You can rotate the weir on the trap to set any where you need it. Unlike the no hub trap that is fixed.
     
  6. May 3, 2017 #26

    branimal

    branimal

    branimal

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    My bathroom fixture layout left the toilet and tub too close for comfort. I changed the layout by swapping the tub and shower. Which means I had to move the drains around.

    Due to tight spacing and already laid long run pipes to the main stack I was forced to be creative. Both setups involve the wye being BELOW the ptrap. Is that acceptable?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  7. May 3, 2017 #27
  8. May 3, 2017 #28

    frodo

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    that is called an "S" trap. no it is not legal

    layout.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2017
  9. May 3, 2017 #29

    branimal

    branimal

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    Missed this post. I'll read up on tapped sanitary tees. This might save me going insane. I thought sanitary wyes were required for some reason.

    Oh and yes I am required to use no hub cast iron.

    Thanks.
     
  10. May 3, 2017 #30

    branimal

    branimal

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    Thanks frodo!
     
  11. May 3, 2017 #31

    branimal

    branimal

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    The drains for the shower and tub are 5' and 7.5' feet away. They join at a wye and then into the main stack. That stack is sort of in an inaccessible spot. Here's a diagram of what I'm working with.

    Can I put a sanitary tee after the wye and run that to vent? Are my drain runs too far away from the vent lines?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  12. May 4, 2017 #32

    branimal

    branimal

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    Ok I believe I solved the shower drain. See pic below.

    The tub was a pain. Mostly because the pipe straps keep falling off when I'm trying to add pieces.

    But I think this might work. See drawing.




    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  13. May 4, 2017 #33

    Mr_David

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    here is an example of a 1-1/2" copper drain to 2" cast.
    First picture is back to back tubs with the drains exposed in a garage.
    You can reduce the depth by tilting the tapped santee 45 degrees.
    The plus about using a DWV P-Trap is you can rotate the U.
    Unlike the no hub p-trap is fixed to the weir

    2nd pic is a tapped santé in vertical position with vent going up into a wall

    DSCN0625.jpg

    DSCN0622.jpg
     
  14. May 5, 2017 #34

    branimal

    branimal

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    Cool pics Mr David. Being able to rotate the U on my ptrap would have saved me a lot of time.
     
  15. May 5, 2017 #35

    branimal

    branimal

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    Think I figured out my tub drain. The 1/6 bend connected to the 1/16 created a nice downward slope. I'll cut the pieces tomorrow and finish it off. Might roll my wye just a bit higher.

    [​IMG]
     
  16. May 8, 2017 #36

    branimal

    branimal

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    Tub and shower drains laid out. Ran a water test (full open on the hot water) and they are both water tight.

    Thanks for all the tips guys.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  17. May 8, 2017 #37

    frodo

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    .............

    0f0cec3edca4a9649906a61028088d9b.jpg
     
  18. May 8, 2017 #38

    branimal

    branimal

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    I can replace some of the 90s with 2 45 turns.

    I've got 4 90s. Under the joist is two 45 turns.

    #2 below is an 82.5 degree but basically a 90. I needed that to create a downward slope.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  19. May 8, 2017 #39

    frodo

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    a clean-out is required whenever the change in direction is more than 135 degrees.

    4 x 90 = 360 degrees
     
  20. May 9, 2017 #40

    branimal

    branimal

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    Thanks frodo.

    How would I access it the clean out? It's a tiled wall. The other side is a closet. I could build an access panel.


    How can I avoid the clean out? And get my drains running with fewer turns. I don't really understand MrDavids proposal on using a sanity tee to vent the tub and shower. Can someone explain that?
     

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