New homeowner with sump pump and switch operation questions.

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Falcon195

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I just purchased a 23 year old house and I was checking the sump pump for proper operation.
This is the first home I have had that uses a sump pit for ground water removal.

What I have found is that my sump pit is about 36" deep with a 4" PVC pipe coming into the pit about one half to two thirds up from the bottom of the pit.
I have also noticed that the water level in the pit stays pretty much at the three quarters full level as there is a sediment ring around the pit at the three quarters full level and that is where the water level likes to stay.

Today as I checked the operation of the sump pump I poured about a gallon of water into the pit and the pump turned on emptying the pit in just a few seconds and the pump turned off when the water level reached the bottom of the pit.

As soon as the sump pump turns off after emptying the pit I can hear and see water coming from the 4" PVC pipe coming into the side of the pit.
The water level then rises back to the three quarter level in the pit and then stops rising and the sump pump does not go back on until I pour more water back into the pit.

Now this seems like everything is operating correctly but what has me concerned is the water coming out of the 4" PVC feed pipe bringing the water level to three quarters full in the pit.
My first thought was that the water table must be above the level of the 4" PVC feed pipe.
Does this sound feasible?

Also I noticed there isn't a float switch on the sump pump but there is a smaller round device located next to the sump laying on the bottom of the sump pit with cord going to the electrical outlet and the sump pump cord piggybacking into the cord from the device laying into the bottom of the pit.

Could this device be the switch such as a diaphragm pressure switch which controls the operation of the sump pump?

If so, are diaphragm pressure switches adjustable to control when the pump turns on and off?

Like I said earlier I am concerned about the water level in the pit riding at the three quarters full level as it's normal level. And also it seems the the operation of the sump pump is set up for this level as it seems to function properly.

The reason I am trying to educate myself about the operation of the whole system is because I wanted to purchase an additional pump and switch to have in reserve in case I ever have to replace them if they fail.

Thanks for taking the time to read this post and I look forward to any information I can receive on the operation of my sump system.
 
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The small round device is probably a float switch. I bought two Meyers pumps, last year, and they came with new floats, that sound like what you described.

But it could be a pressure switch. However that is pretty doubtful as, the float switch is pretty well known, simple technology, with a low failure rate, and low cost. Not sure what would drive the move to a pressure switch.
 
Sounds like to me you are in a high water table area. You may need to get a pump that is non-auto and use a "piggy back" float switch so you can adjust it higher or lower and tie off to discharge pipe with a zip tie.
 
I'd say it sounds like you may very well have a diaphragm switch, pump control. These are more common in smaller diameter sumps and/or where things may be crowded. Tethered floats are more apt to get hung up in the absence of adequate clearance. The guided float types I think are preferred by many. What is the diameter of the sump?
Don't believe the diaphragm types are typically adjustable but are purchased based on on requirements. Although I would think the "OFF" level should have some adjustment. Don't really know. I would ask company's like Little Giant and others that make them. And it doesn't sound like you would want to change the pump "ON" level.
Yes, it does sound like that is your typical ground water level, as you mentioned. Although there are generally seasonal variations.
Don't know how long you have lived there but it may be a good idea to find out from neighbors if there is much fluctuation in the ground water level with storms etc.

I would try to access the nameplate info on he existing pump, if possible, for closely matching flow vs head characteristics. In the absence of that information, you could get an idea by estimating it. For example, time how long it takes to pump out a gallon or two.(GPM) And the discharge head would be the distance from the pump low level point(approx.) to the point of discharge. Regardless if the pipe rises then drops to the point of discharge. Discharge point would be where it exits the pipe and enters a free-fall state or atmospheric pressure. Do you know where it discharges? If it discharge pipe rises a substantial distance before falling again we would then make sure it is capable of that higher head condition on startup(at reduced flow).
 
@SHEPLMBR makes a good point regarding the potential need and/or advantage of having a second pump set up to come on at a slightly higher level.
Covers the primary pump if it can't keep up with the incoming water level and/or acts as a ready backup if main pump fails.
 

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