Natural gas pipe/valve help

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chris16371

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Hello, new here and hoping I can get some help! Little back story....
My fiance was raised by her great grandparents and unfortunately they passed a few years ago. They left her the house she not only grew up in but also her great grandmother grew up in, other words it's old. I'm a diyer but the type that researches everything before doing the job. The main sewage line backed up last year and I cut all the old cast iron out and replaced it with pvc. I noticed the hot water tank wasn't working right sometimes, I went to the basement and found part of the top of my hot water tank was melting, later found out it was carbon monoxide. I did some research and found out a lot about proper venting, the hot water tank vent was a 90 right off the top , then a downward slope, back up, and end of pipe just sitting on a small opening. It was vented that way because the tank was to tall to vent upwards. I went out and bought a short tank and vented it properly. I've done other safety fixes and updates but I'll save those stories for another day.
In the winter, when temps drop to 25 or lower, we have an issue with our laundry room and bathroom getting cold and affecting the performance of our furnace at times. I think this is mainly because they were additions added to the back of the house and not sealed or insulated well, also the longest ducts runs are from the furnace to those rooms and the air blows cooler. We tried balancing the vents with no luck. I want to add supplement heat to these rooms with natural gas heaters, each room is large and open. I've never worked on gas lines before so I immediately start researching. I have calculated pipe size and btu and know I can run 1/2" the length I need, staying at 3/4" is also a possibility. I do not see a regulator anywhere, meter is in basement. My other appliances also require 1/2 psi also so I'm assuming they are low pressure lines or there's a regulator near the meter that's underground at the curb box. When I changed the hot water tank, I noticed it has a copper line that runs to an old valve that I've never seen before. I'm not a fan of the copper line but I'm not sure what this valve is. I've attached a picture, I'm wondering if it serves any other purpose other than being a shut off valve and if I can remove it and run a line straight to the hot water tank, I will put a shut off closer to the tank. If so I'll be running a tee near where that valve was and sending one line to the tank and the other further up until it will tee and go to the heaters I'll be installing. Then I need to decide on csst the whole way or black iron and finish with csst appliance hook up lines. I appreciate everyone's time and help!
 

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That is just an old valve.
A valve is needed at each appliance. A modern valve will have a flare fitting built on one end and then we use corrugated flex of proper/needed length, sized accordingly.
Sizing is very important in gas systems, and adding new loads must be factored in.
I recommend hiring a pro to help you size.
It is very rare in my great realm of knowledge to find appliances that utilize 1/2 lb. psi. Almost all modern residental appliances are designated to operate at 7" W.C. (water column) (which is more like 1/4 lb. psi)
 
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