Multiple questions about water heater

Discussion in 'Water Heaters and Softeners' started by Zanne, Jul 9, 2015.

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  1. Aug 15, 2015 #101

    frodo

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    this help ?????



    11012065_829165337165278_2335228775580332686_n.jpg


    pvc glue is for pvc

    cpvc glue is for cpvc

    pvc glue does not work on cpvc
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2015
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  2. Aug 15, 2015 #102

    frodo

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    yes, that is an angle stop valve


    11012065_829165337165278_2335228775580332686_n.jpg

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
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  3. Aug 15, 2015 #103

    Zanne

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    Thanks, Frodo! That helps very much!

    So PVC cement on the non-threaded pvc parts, teflon tape on the threaded parts, and CPVC cement on the CPVC nonthreaded parts?
     
  4. Aug 15, 2015 #104

    frodo

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    throw the teflon tape away, get a can of rectum seal #5 yellow baby **** looking stuff
    [​IMG]
     
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  5. Aug 15, 2015 #105

    frodo

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    yes dear!!!
     
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  6. Aug 15, 2015 #106

    havasu

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    I just replaced my sprinkler manifold and valves using Rectorseal on all threaded parts. Turned out great with no leaks anywhere!
     
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  7. Aug 16, 2015 #107

    Mr_David

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    You're probably on the right track. Toilet could be purging the air from the cold side and tank is collecting it and is more noticeable when hot water is drawn from the heater.

    I'm still reading through this thread trying to catch up
     
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  8. Aug 16, 2015 #108

    Mr_David

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    You're probably right. But you better qualify the replacement cost with the customer before you open it. Chances are it WILL leak.

    We have an unwritten policy< DON'T open the T&P unless you are planning on replacing it.
     
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  9. Aug 16, 2015 #109

    KULTULZ

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    You are 100% correct. I was coming from the direction of a knowledgeable home owner performing the check and his/her/mutants ability to replace the valve on his own.

    Your correction is coming from a service person's point and/or a home owners inability to replace his own valve after performing the test and the resultant cost of having a professional do it.

    THANX for that clarification... ;)
     
  10. Aug 17, 2015 #110

    phishfood

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    I love #5, it is my go to pipe dope. But I don't use it on CPVC, the label is a bit ambiguous on whether it is safe on CPVC or not.
     
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  11. Aug 17, 2015 #111

    frodo

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    if it has threads it gets doped, i use #5 or laco slic tite

    [​IMG]


    and for, special occasions, in a jam

    [​IMG]


    do not use any teflon tape.
     
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  12. Aug 17, 2015 #112

    KULTULZ

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    ...hmmph...

    Reminds me of a few years ago, I applied to an online school to be one of those private eyes. You know, danger...beautiful women...big bucks...

    I paid the tuition but never heard from them again. Was this my first test, to try and find them? They said there was a no refund policy... :(

    Confused In W (By GOD) V...

    (Our official state flower is a satellite dish.)
     
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  13. Aug 22, 2015 #113

    Zanne

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    Thanks for the info!
    Rectum seal.. LOL!!

    So, I should use the slic-tite on my cpvc? Would it be ok to use on the pvc as well?

    I should get some to use on the outside threaded faucet thing because right now it has teflon tape, but I didn't have any pipe dope. I will have to see if the local hardware store carries it. Last time I asked about pipe dope a few years ago, the clerk just stared at me like a dope. :p

    Reminds me I need to fix a few exterior water lines for hoses.
     
  14. May 20, 2019 #114

    Zanne

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    I know this is old & I have a lot of projects going, but I'm thinking about this one again because I'm wondering how much life my water heater has & still want to fix it.
    Looking at the pictures again, I realized that the pvc female to threaded male (mip? mtp?) fitting is currently on my cold water line & that is what the hose hooks to.
    So, I could get a female threaded ball valve like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/AMERICAN-VALVE-Brass-3-4-in-FNPT-Ball-Valve/1000248315
    Plus a male threaded nipple so the hose can attach to it: https://www.lowes.com/pd/B-K-3-4-in-Threaded-Male-Adapter-Nipple-Fitting/1000505665 for the hose to connect to.

    Further down the thread I saw mention of a dialectric nipples to reduce heat loss from the hoses. Like this? https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-2-Pack-Water-Heater-Dielectric-Nipples/3693216
    How would I connect this? Would it attach directly to the top of the water heater? Would I need a female adapter/coupling? Is it even necessary?
     
  15. May 20, 2019 #115

    frodo

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    Good morning !!!!!!!!!!!!!

    here is the info you requested

    w_h1.png

    you can buy either a flex connector for the cold inlet
    that is fip on both ends and a brass nipple to transition

    or you can buy a flex connector that is fip on one end and mip on the other
    choice is yours to make

    or. for a 3rd option. big yellow box store, sells a complete kit that has
    every thing.
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2019
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  16. May 20, 2019 #116

    Zanne

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    Thanks, Frodo!
    The fip x mip would probably be simpler than having to get the brass nipple (one less place to leak). I'm trying to find one that is in stock (or maybe I can get it from amazon). They have a bunch of push-fit ones that come with a ball valve attached but I'm wary of push-fit. But, this kit looks pretty nice https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...er-Installation-Kit-EBWCB-07-18EKIT/206512094

    How exactly do the dialectric nipples fit on the water heater? Aren't there already nipples coming out? It looks like the current lines are fipxfip so the water heater would need some sort of adapter-- unless the current nipples can be removed.
     
  17. May 20, 2019 #117

    frodo

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  18. May 20, 2019 #118

    Zanne

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    Thanks again, Frodo! Is the corrugated hose better than the braided steel hoses?
     

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