Mounting wall sink

[Jradams76]

I was about to install a 2x6 between the studs to mount my wall sink but then discovered what I think is a vent pipe I looked down the wall and it connects to the drain below I turned on the water upstairs and no water runs through it and it’s not above or near any bathrooms can I notch the 2x6 and still use it as a brace or would taking a 1/2” off of it weaken it too much? Another possibility is can I cut the pipe and go through the stud on the left to re route it and come back to it after the brace? Just wanted to see what my options are

thanks

 

[breplum]

You can dado out 1/2" from the 2X if it is good, solid stock.
Be sure to limit screw length and write notes on the bracket so future people don't mess it up.

 

[Jeff Handy]

Future people will have x-ray vision, haha.

 

[House Doc]

My thoughts... Get rid of that small bit of drywall on the stud.
Cut your 2x4s to size and kirf the left one to fit the vent (not a biggie, the pipe will have a bit of give to it)
Before installing, drill pocket holes 3 each end to make installing the braces much easier. Mark the wall so you know where the pipe is (as breplumb said)
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Kreg-Pocket-Hole-Jig-KPHJ310/310410042Patch the DW ( not covering up your marks for the pipe ((don't laugh!!)) Predrill your screws (use at least size 12 screws) I would drill the mount so there's a screw going into the center stud. (just for S&G)
You're set!

 

[Jradams76]

My thoughts... Get rid of that small bit of drywall on the stud.
Cut your 2x4s to size and kirf the left one to fit the vent (not a biggie, the pipe will have a bit of give to it)
Before installing, drill pocket holes 3 each end to make installing the braces much easier. Mark the wall so you know where the pipe is (as breplumb said)
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Kreg-Pocket-Hole-Jig-KPHJ310/310410042Patch the DW ( not covering up your marks for the pipe ((don't laugh!!)) Predrill your screws (use at least size 12 screws) I would drill the mount so there's a screw going into the center stud. (just for S&G)
You're set!

Thank you. So just so I understand
I was going to use a 2x6 just figured it would be more firm since the sink is a cast iron 30" wall mount and its heavy and figured I would need all the help I can get to make sure it doesnt come crashing down.
I would cut two 2x6's one that goes between the studs on the right and one that goes between the studs on the left but I would need to notch/dado out enough space to allow for the pipe.
Then when mounting the brace carefully use the right length of screws so I dont puncture the pipe.

Just was worried that cutting 1/2" or 3/4" out of the 2x6 would make it too weak to hold the sink.

 

[breplum]

A 2 x 8 would be ideal. In fact not knowing what your sink looks like and FYI all of the wall mount thinks I use have anchor holes at the low part of the sink back that require blocking to hold the thing on the bracket. So most of the time we will use appropriate 2 x 12’s or a stack of two by tens to ensure we have solid blocking everywhere behind the sink, not just the bracket

 

[Jradams76]

Here is a pic of the sink and where the bracket goes. So there would be no worry then with trimming 1/2” to 3/4 notch in a 2x10 that would go between the two studs in the wall. I guess that was my biggest worry. Is it would be weaker on the left side due to the pipe. This sink is going on the bathroom so really no plans to fill it with water but I guess better safe. 30” cast iron sink

 

[breplum]

With the way the screw hole layout is, I recommend keeping the blocking as a solid piece and notch the stud to receive the long 2 x 8.

 

[Jradams76]

With the way the screw hole layout is, I recommend keeping the blocking as a solid piece and notch the stud to receive the long 2 x 8.

Ok thats a great idea. I can notch the two studs to fit the 2x8 but will sill still need to notch the 2x8 around the pipe so that the blocking can fit.

 

[breplum]

Just notch one stud, the one directly behind the sink.
Toenail/screw the side studs is fine. Typ. three angled from the face side and then the 1.5 side predrill partially and add extra screw there.
Impact driver driving torx head screws rated for framing is best/easiest.
NO drywall screws no matter what (not rated for structural)

 

[Jradams76]

Gotcha sorry knew it was just the middle stud I still would notch. I would also need to still notch the blocking 2x8 to allow for the pipe? Correct? I won’t use drywall screws I had some t25 3” screws that I was planning on using. I think I have some 4” as well.

 

[Jeff Handy]

I would also slather some wood glue into the notch, if it is cut neatly enough to make good contact.
Or polyurethane construction adhesive if the contact is iffy.
Important to make the finished framing not bowed or concave.

Then one three inch screw through the backer into the notch, pre-drilled all the way to avoid splitting.
And not placed in the way of the screws for the hanger bracket.

 

[Jradams76]

Thanks for the great advice. Just double checking. I notch the center stud and the. I will have to. Itch the blocking board to allow for the pipe?