Leak at 1" copper to pex connection

[DeCasteljau]

Hi,

I found dampness in my garage and investigated to find that there's a leak where a copper pipe connects to a pex tube.

How should I replace that fitting? Looks like it goes from copper to pex to another pex. Was that done just to bridge the gap? Also this is the house hot water supply line if that makes a difference in how I should fix this.

Is this a pretty easy DIY or would you recommend a plumber come out to fix it?

Lastly, anyone have guidance on fixing the water damage that's been caused by this? I'm going to replace all of the drywall right there, but what about 2x4s that are soaked as well? Do those just need time to dry?

Thanks, for the help!

 

[breplum]

That is Uponor PEX and I have the RMA in front of me for a leaking issue. If it is Uponor materials, the repairs will be covered but you need to have a large portion of PEX if PEX is the problem.
But broadly speaking to dry out stuff you either need to know somewhat what you are doing and rent a dehumidifier immediately or call a Water Damage specialty company, like Servicemaster or other local shop.
They can be very expensive, but Uponor will cover it if you do the full claim route through local Uponor rep.

 

[nebojsa]

Any idea as to why it would leak. It looks like a simple installation.

 

[JG plumbing]

It looks like your have a badly soldered joint. Unless you can resweat it cut and sweat a new adapter onto the copper, I'd call a plumber.

 

[DeCasteljau]

That is Uponor PEX and I have the RMA in front of me for a leaking issue. If it is Uponor materials, the repairs will be covered but you need to have a large portion of PEX if PEX is the problem.
But broadly speaking to dry out stuff you either need to know somewhat what you are doing and rent a dehumidifier immediately or call a Water Damage specialty company, like Servicemaster or other local shop.
They can be very expensive, but Uponor will cover it if you do the full claim route through local Uponor rep.

Thanks, I'll definitely check to see if this will be covered by Uponor.

It looks like your have a badly soldered joint. Unless you can resweat it cut and sweat a new adapter onto the copper, I'd call a plumber.

Seems like it might be simple to install as sharkbite onto the copper pipe and do another pex connection. I definitely wouldn't want to do soldering as I've never done it before. Any thoughts on sharkbites?

 

[DeCasteljau]

Here's another picture of the damage and piping around the leak:

 

[JG plumbing]

There are people who like sharkbite fittings. I'm not one of them. I've had too many instances with them leaking. They seem to work on for some people.

 

[breplum]

I'll chime in that I like Sharkbite or equal major mfr knockoffs. (Never use underground, but I have them in 10 storey buildings without worry.
When sharkbites are used, be sure to make a sharpie mark at the full depth before pushing on, to indicate that you have reached full depth.
In this sticky situation, I personally would use Viega ProPress, but that starts getting into realm of preferences.
I'd still like to see the actual leak spot.
The picture with the red rectangle is not close enough nor illuminated enough.

 

[DeCasteljau]

I'll chime in that I like Sharkbite or equal major mfr knockoffs. (Never use underground, but I have them in 10 storey buildings without worry.
When sharkbites are used, be sure to make a sharpie mark at the full depth before pushing on, to indicate that you have reached full depth.
In this sticky situation, I personally would use Viega ProPress, but that starts getting into realm of preferences.
I'd still like to see the actual leak spot.
The picture with the red rectangle is not close enough nor illuminated enough.

Here are a couple lit up and closer pictures of the leak. Not sure if the actual spot of the leak is there or in the back of that. Not sure what type of clamp that is going onto the end of the copper tubing, but it doesn't look very tidy.

There's only about 1 inch of pipe before a bend so I'm not sure there'd be enough to use a sharkbite. Seems like it might be a bit more involved.

 

[Duckbutter]

SharkBites are perfect for temporary applications, like capping stubs or extending a length of PEX to run water for a test.
For long-term applications, especially concealed, I say "no".

Rub your finger on a tank bolt washer inside a toilet tank after a few years from installation, chances are you get a black spot on your finger, that's what happens to rubber exposed to treated tap water over time.

 

[Rickyman]

Here are a couple lit up and closer pictures of the leak. Not sure if the actual spot of the leak is there or in the back of that. Not sure what type of clamp that is going onto the end of the copper tubing, but it doesn't look very tidy.

There's only about 1 inch of pipe before a bend so I'm not sure there'd be enough to use a sharkbite. Seems like it might be a bit more involved.

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That’s a pex fitting adapter. It’s a tough joint to solder so it’s probably leaking. The 45° it’s soldered into looks like it’s torqued a bit. If you’re even going to attempt a shark bite you need to open more drywall and get to actual copper pipe, not the fitting you have in the picture.