Lead toilet drain

[BuzzSaw]

I just joined (and donated). Forums like this one are valuable and I don't mind at all supporting them.

Here's my problem. I'd like to replace two toilets in my home. The replacement toilets require a 12" rough-in set back (although in my case the wall behind them is finished) and all I have is a 10" set back to the center of the 4" drain. The brass toilet flange is attached (leaded in) to a lead elbow, which looks like it's 90-degrees.

The only offsets I have seen are made of PVC or cast iron. Is there a way to attach an 2" offset of some kind to that lead elbow? I'm thinking whatever device I choose it would have to have either a brass or cast iron flange with an attached lead "skirt" that could fit inside the elbow and be leaded to it.

The easy answer would be to choose a toilet with a 10" rough-in and I would do that if I could find one with a "power flush" and/or a duel-flush option.

I'm not a plumber (but I worked as a carpenter for 13 years and I'm pretty handy) so forgive me if I used the incorrect terminology to describe things.

I'd appreciate any help you more knowledgable tradesmen/women can give me. Thanks in advance.

 

[arctic bill]

You really only need 11 1/2 inches from the toilet bolts to the wall. so this is what you do.
1) remove the brass flange by straightening out the lead stub.
2) remove in front of the lead stub all the material , wood tile cement what ever.
3) hammer the lead stub forward until you have the 11 1/2 inches to the center .
4) reinstall or replace the brass flange and bolts so that there is 11 1/2 inches from the wall to the brass bolts.
5) pour cement in to the void created by moving the stub forward .
6) install plugs and screws for the flange
7) now ever so nicely hammer the lead stub over the brass flange. no kinks or breaks
8) put new wax seal and installs toilet and tank
that will be $25 just kidding

 

[BuzzSaw]

You really only need 11 1/2 inches from the toilet bolts to the wall. so this is what you do.
1) remove the brass flange by straightening out the lead stub.
2) remove in front of the lead stub all the material , wood tile cement what ever.
3) hammer the lead stub forward until you have the 11 1/2 inches to the center .
4) reinstall or replace the brass flange and bolts so that there is 11 1/2 inches from the wall to the brass bolts.
5) pour cement in to the void created by moving the stub forward .
6) install plugs and screws for the flange
7) now ever so nicely hammer the lead stub over the brass flange. no kinks or breaks
8) put new wax seal and installs toilet and tank
that will be $25 just kidding

I thought about what you suggested but i'm not sure I can get an inch and a half out of that elbow. I'm going to try to post a picture.

Am I right in assuming that the flange sits on the finished floor?

 

[Jeff Handy]

Just get a ten inch rough-in toilet.
You can find lists of flushing performance by approved laboratories.
No “power flush” needed.
I would not start fooling with the existing flange or elbow.
You break something, now you are looking at many hundreds of dollars to fix your blunder.
Just my opinion.

 

[Jeff Handy]

Dual flush is not really necessary, the toilets are already such low flow.
Dual flush toilet guts are much more complicated, I would never buy one.
People on here will argue about that.
I believe in “if it’s yellow, let it mellow, if it’s brown, flush it down”.
Just close the lid.
If you have company over, then flush your pee.

 

[GReynolds929]

I have lost count how many toilets I have replaced because the owners let the yellow mellow and the salt and mineral build up in the trapway slowed down and snagged things. I can always tell when I pull a toilet if the urine is not flushed right away just by the build up on the pipe. Urinals are a great example, if you’ve ever had the luxury of working on one...its something I wouldn’t wish on an enemy. No one flushes a urinal when they’re done, which is why they were the first to have sensors. Just my two cents.

 

[Jeff Handy]

I never considered that consequence!
Meanwhile, my parents’ home with six kids had a rule that nighttime pee should be left unflushed.
Poops were ok to flush away.
Because the late 50’s era toilets were loud, and water wasteful, about three or four gallons roaring down.
We sold that house after 59 years, all the old toilets still installed, American Standard, still working pretty good.

 

[Jeff Handy]

PS Does anyone else my age remember “swordfights”?
It was a guy thing, haha.

 

[TomFOhio]

If you get online there are many pressure assisted toilets available in 10" rough...

 

[TomFOhio]

PS Does anyone else my age remember “swordfights”?
It was a guy thing, haha.

Jeff we use to swordfight with Christmas wrapping tubes. My sister said I got to rough with her. LOL...

 

[Jeff Handy]

The “sword fights” I’m referring to are when two boys are pissing into one toilet.
They “cross the streams”, like in Ghostbusters, and the kid whose piss runs out first loses the sword fight.

 

[Jeff Handy]

Jeff we use to swordfight with Christmas wrapping tubes. My sister said I got to rough with her. LOL...

Tom, we also played with those long cardboard tubes, after we got over the frenzy of opening our presents.
Someone would always doze off on the couch, and we would give them a big loud blast like from a tuba. right in their ear, and they would wake up terrified, haha!