not always, the finger over the end of a stay full of water is the same principle as what I’m saying. The volume of solid water in the DW hose has to be pulled up for the water in the trap to rise to the horizontal to allow it to drain..
Kitchen Sink Drainage Confusion
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not always, the finger over the end of a stay full of water is the same principle as what I’m saying. The volume of solid water in the DW hose has to be pulled up for the water in the trap to rise to the horizontal to allow it to drain..
There’s no finger over the kitchen sink.
The water in the dishwasher hose doesn’t have to be pulled anywhere for the kitchen sink to drain from above.
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it is pushed by a pump, the residule sits in the hose and hardens when the pump is not running
then when the pup is on it forces the half hard crap into the drain,
does it clog at the baffle? is there a baffle. hell i am baffled are you baffled.
If what TBDET is saying was true then a leaking toilet flapper would overflow a toilet bowl before running out the outlet of the s trap of the toilet.......
Because that little trickle couldn’t flush the bowl......
Think about it. 
Because that little trickle couldn’t flush the bowl......
Think about it. If what TBDET is saying was true then a leaking toilet flapper would overflow a toilet bowl before running out the outlet of the s trap of the toilet.......
Because that little trickle couldn’t flush the bowl......
I'm sorry that this seems like I’m somehow offending you by trying to help this person. No your toilet example is in no way similar to this situation. A normal drain is a column of water going down and through a trap with no restriction. My theory is that the DW inlet is above the bottom of the trap and when the drain water covers the inlet you then get a solid column of water from below the trap through the inlet and through the bottom of the trap. If you take a clear hose and fill it with water with the ends plugged, lay it on counter with one end going into a sink them raise in the middle and then when it drops towards the sink put a U in it (below the level of the raised Portion) then un-cap the end in the sink with the other end still plugged only the part AFTER the “trap” will drain (No cheating, both sides of the “U” have to be perpendicular). This sink is doing this but then the sink water is just pushing on the water being held in the trap by that vacuum of the DW line.
I’m not offended, I’m sorry you’re offended that I think your theory is wrong.
I suggest you set up a single bowl sink and test your theory. I have and your theory is incorrect.
A dishwasher connected below the trap water line will not stop a sink from draining from above..
Stop and listen to yourself......
Theres no vacuum by the dishwasher, it’s just a hose of water laying there. ....you’re trying to change physics to make something the op says is happening possible, but it’s not. ✌
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looking familiar ?
Now, your theory is wrong. I’m sorry
Here you can see the water going in the sink snd clearly coming out the drain.
So no, I’m not offended.
Any questions ?
If anyone wants Me to configure the piping another way, please post your specs.
So no, I’m not offended.
Any questions ?
If anyone wants Me to configure the piping another way, please post your specs.
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Did anyone go to trade school here ?
We use to set stuff like this up all the time.
I’ve ran all kinds of tests from running lawnmowers with propane to testing compression fittings with 500# of nitrogen strapped to a generator vibrating for a week.
I installed a 2” line for a toilet that’s still working.
And many many more.
We use to set stuff like this up all the time.
I’ve ran all kinds of tests from running lawnmowers with propane to testing compression fittings with 500# of nitrogen strapped to a generator vibrating for a week.
I installed a 2” line for a toilet that’s still working.
And many many more.
No as a matter of fact it doesn't look remotely familiar.
No it doesn't look familiar to me. The original picture showed a sanitary T that was actually slightly below the trap outlet. so when water was run it would actually try to run into the the T for the dishwasher drain then when it that was filled or as high as the outlet of the trap it would try to reverse flow to the drain. The full or nearly full 1 1/2" T with the full DW hose connected to it would then be acting like an S trap but when the water tries to go out the actual trap the make shift S trap will not allow the trap to empty. Once that takes place you can introduce water on top of what's trapped and it won't move until it overcomes the volume of water on the other side.
I am just giving Peter an idea that he can try without spending any money. All he needs to do is lift the DW drain hose at the T so it stays above the T and he can find out if I am right or wrong but at least it is something positive he can try. Isn't the idea trying to help someone not just telling someone they are wrong. I can assure you that my only interest is trying to help Peter and I'm quite sure I won't be subjecting myself to any more of this after I see some resolution to this situation. The moderator commented earlier about how many posts and how people were trying to help, It seems that the tenor of this thread has changed since then and I'm sorry that it has gotten that way.
It doesn’t look even remotely familiar ?
A theory isn’t a theory once it’s proved incorrect. At that point it becomes just “ incorrect “ and nonsense.
So you think I need to use the same fittings as the OP for your magic to happen ?
Why wouldn’t the sink fill up the dishwasher hose as I have it now ? It’s connected below the trap water line. The hose is going down and full of water.
What would raising my connection point to just below the outlet do.....that it’s not already doing ? Lol
I’m going to humor you......I’m going to set it up as close as possible to what the OP has. I’ll raise the connection point 3” and use a sanitary tee.,
Should I also sprinkle it with the hair of a Newt and click my heels three times while saying “ AAV “
It is a full moon......maybe that’s why it’s not creating a vacuum here in America.
I’ll set the dishwasher inlet just below the outlet of the trap and use a sanitary Tee as you say.......because we all know that it has to be a sanitary tee for this magic to happen Right ?
Back checks aren’t needed based off your theory, just install a dishwasher tee because you say water can’t back up through those, has to be a sanitary tee for water to run backwards through it caused by the “ vacuum “ in the dishwasher hose where the second S trap has formed pulling against the other s trap.
Lmfao
this is ridiculous.My hose is connected in the seal of the trap. The hose is full of water.
It’s an S trap
No vent
Where’s the dishwasher “ vacuum “ ???
Lol !!!
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The Op most likely has a section of the drain past the outlet of the trap that’s partially clogged or a big belly in the pipe holding water.
Everything we’ve suggested to the OP he/she has shot down because it’s been working like it is for a year until a few weeks ago. He /she says the hose and connection has been that way and has been working fine until recently.,
Let’s not make up magical vacuums that change the laws of physics in order to make the op’s description of their problem make sense.
The majority of homeowners I deal with on a daily basis FAIL to accurately describe issues they’re having and when the problems occur.
They often add things or omit things that are occurring or do not properly know how to check for problems.
I’ll set it up tomorrow and post pics with results.
Everything we’ve suggested to the OP he/she has shot down because it’s been working like it is for a year until a few weeks ago. He /she says the hose and connection has been that way and has been working fine until recently.,
Let’s not make up magical vacuums that change the laws of physics in order to make the op’s description of their problem make sense.
The majority of homeowners I deal with on a daily basis FAIL to accurately describe issues they’re having and when the problems occur.
They often add things or omit things that are occurring or do not properly know how to check for problems.
I’ll set it up tomorrow and post pics with results.
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At the risk of getting off-topic, agreed and a round of applause.
I'm amazed and delighted by these forums and the amount of truly first rate advice given by people that know their stuff to folks that don't (me, et al). That's the reason when I first had an issue and joined, I selected a paid membership and it's probably the best deal I ever made. If I had to pay a plumber for the advice and insight I've gleaned from the professionals, regular contributors, and the folks that post their issues, it would have literally cost me thousands. As with many things these days, it's "buyer beware" but if someone wants to figure out a plumbing issue, this is a great place to try and do it.
I encourage anyone that can afford it to select a paid membership. It's only fair (and not much $ either).
Thanks all.
