What about not putting a 90° offset in the vent until we are above the flood level.
Kitchen island proper venting question
- Thread starter Lrryjrry
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That wall is coming out. It is going to be an island cabinet.
How would propose to not offset until above flood rim?
dig down a little deeper and find the horizontal drain below the tee.
AAV is not a good solution.
The vent going over to the wall is useless the way it is now. Your almost there.
Don't give up now. The vent is to protect the water seal in the p-trap. That will not . Compromise is installing an the AAV, but not acceptable in Calif code.
Your money. your house.
AAV is not a good solution.
The vent going over to the wall is useless the way it is now. Your almost there.
Don't give up now. The vent is to protect the water seal in the p-trap. That will not . Compromise is installing an the AAV, but not acceptable in Calif code.
Your money. your house.
Im just saying what my inspector would tell me. I could get away with oversize pipe or a AAV under the sink
Hi all, thanks again for the help. Here is the update that we install the vent loop, also we found the 3" pipe just 2-3" below the 2" drain pipe. Do you see anything wrong with our vent loop before we seal with concrete?
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you used a tee instead of a combo.
but what jumps out at me and screams...WTF!!!!!???
is the soldered copper joints instead of brazed joints.
Do you REALLY want to pull the cabinet in a few years, break the floor to fix a leak ?
your house, do as you wish, you been warned
after, you braze them. insulate the pipes to keep the concrete and rocks off of them.
copper contracts and swells with heat. if a rock is laying on the pipe, the movement will rub a hole in the pipe
concrete has lime in it, it will eat the pipe up
but what jumps out at me and screams...WTF!!!!!???
is the soldered copper joints instead of brazed joints.
Do you REALLY want to pull the cabinet in a few years, break the floor to fix a leak ?
your house, do as you wish, you been warned
after, you braze them. insulate the pipes to keep the concrete and rocks off of them.
copper contracts and swells with heat. if a rock is laying on the pipe, the movement will rub a hole in the pipe
concrete has lime in it, it will eat the pipe up
How is the different between solder or braze the copper joints? I need to talk to the guy again. Do you see any big issues for using this T since the 3" drain is right below?
I need to know also...
Isn't there a need for a special coded copper pipe for use under concrete?
I need to know also...
Isn't there a need for a special coded copper pipe for use under concrete?
I think I will see how to pull the pipes out to do the connections above the ground tomorrow
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UPC, chapter 6 water distribution
609.3 Under Concrete Slab. Water piping installed
within a building and in or under a concrete floor slab resting
on the ground shall be installed in accordance with the
following requirements:
609.3.2 Copper tubing shall be installed without
joints where possible. Where joints are permitted, they
shall be brazed, and fittings shall be wrought copper.
Note: For the purpose of this section, “within the
building” shall mean within the fixed limits of the
building foundation.
609.4 Testing. Upon completion of a section or of
soft solder is a soft material, it will not stand up to the movement of the slab
oh yes, your slab moves. the ground moves also.
609.3 Under Concrete Slab. Water piping installed
within a building and in or under a concrete floor slab resting
on the ground shall be installed in accordance with the
following requirements:
609.3.2 Copper tubing shall be installed without
joints where possible. Where joints are permitted, they
shall be brazed, and fittings shall be wrought copper.
Note: For the purpose of this section, “within the
building” shall mean within the fixed limits of the
building foundation.
609.4 Testing. Upon completion of a section or of
soft solder is a soft material, it will not stand up to the movement of the slab
oh yes, your slab moves. the ground moves also.
As usual, THANX frodo...
Brazing the joint gives a stronger connection (less likely to pull apart) than a solder joint?
...come to think of it, I met a girl in Baltimore once that made the ground move...
we braze the copper pipes, what fitting/connection material to use? I know the pipes should be L type. fittings shall be wrought copper, where can I buy this wrought copper?
Plumbing experts, please advise. I am thinking to put dirt over the copper pipe fittings before covering with concrete to avoid concrete movement to break the copper pipes. Do you think would it solve the problem by doing this along with brazing the fittings?
