Is it ok to offset the vertical pipe above a P trap (tub install)?

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So I returned the tub and drain kit. I will at least say that was an easy process. Now I gotta find another tub, I was very unhappy with that american standard evolution tub. My wife wanted it due to it's 17.5" water depth (nothing else comes close in a 5' tub). I'm going to consider myself lucky that this cracked at this point, not after the walls are installed. The next deepest tubs I can find are about 14-15" soaking depth. That doesn't make my wife very happy but may be where we settle...
 
Sorry it's such a struggle. Sucks to get that involved into a job and thinking you're almost done. Only to find it's all gone to hell in a hand basket. Good luck!!!
 
Yeah lol. Oh well. I'm just glad I found the crack NOW and not after the shower walls were done!!!

Now I need to find a new tub...
 
Well finally some good news. I have been researching every tub ever made (lol) and have found a few suitable options with acceptable soaking depth. Not quite what the other one was, but close if we use one of those "deep soak" overflow kits that basically flips the overflow upside down and gives 2" extra depth. What I really like is if the kit is a pain in the butt or doesn't work properly I can always just swap it with a regular overflow kit. Right now we are interested mostly in the American Standard Cambridge due to it being Americast (I guess sorta like cast iron but actually steel?). Has very good reviews also. All other options are acrylic and I'm kind of turned off to that now... Lastly, I could get a tub from the cultured marble place that will be doing our shower walls, which is probably the most durable option. The negative here is no integral tile flange...
 
Wow sorry to hear of the bad luck with the tub......although I guess it could have been worse if no one had noticed the crack until everything had set up.
 
you can peel the glued fitting off. look for Youtube videos or even on this forum. It has been discussed here a few times
 
Thanks for that tip. I found a few interesting ways to do that yesterday on google. One was the "mechanical" method of basically using a screwdriver or chisel and hammer and breaking the joint apart. I've done this on a toilet flange, but had much better access and more room to work with, and the joint wasn't primed (not sure how much this makes a difference). I also foudn the method of heating a metal pipe that is barely smaller than the pipe your trying to remove out of the socket, then pushing that pipe into the fitting and letting it soften the pvc. Then you can pry the male piece out of the female piece. Then of course I found some "socket saver" drill bits as well. I guess I have some options at least...
 
to cut off your first hub you glued onto pipe coming out of trap, cut the fitting off flush to pipe leaving the hub only.
then with a hacksaw blade make 1 or2 vertical cuts on hub about 1/4" apart. then peel the hub off the pipe.
Pasco rambit works to take pipe out of the socket ( hub ) but it's rough and pay damage the hub.
 
David has a good point. Can very carefully cut the 22 off. Leaving the same stub you attached too. But, you need to clean it very thoroughly, or else you could have a hard time getting it to seal again. Cut at the top of the 22 bell. Then slowly cut, with a hand saw, through the bell end of the 22. Trying not to cut the pvc stub coming up. Then you still have the same original stub to work with.
 
Sorry Mr David, just tried to reword it for someone who might not know the lingo.
 
10 4 thanks guys. I see what you are saying, I can definitely do that. I can clean it up with some emery cloth if need be also, plus I have pvc cleaner.
 
So sorry for you. Seeing your original photos, it is illegal and contrary to common sense to block access to the tub waste/overflow area with the pipes they ran up from the slab. Idiotic, truly.
The code calls for access behind the waste/overflow if slip joint fittings are used on the w/o. It is a sensible and practical rule, because frankly, the w/o is a common failure point, given enough time.
When we do anything like this install, we normaly use 1-1/2" no-hub fittings and a tubular to standard pipe aka Mission T150 to attach to the tubular, gives a bomb proof connection and allows for misalignment and tweaking.
Never use a plastic threaded tubular in a tub w/o...it is a very weak connection because of the thread profile, so with any minor flexing of the tub, you are asking for trouble.
 
I'm sorry I don't fully understand what you're saying about the nu hub fittins etc. Could you maybe clarify for me as I don't know those terms you're using?

I actually know the guy who built this house, we became friends after I bought it from him. He does pretty good work, the house is very well built, but I guess there was a slight lack of planning around the plumbing on this shower...

Thanks!
 
Well, we've decided on a tub from the cultured marble manufacturer that will also be doing the walls. It is 17" soaking depth plus I can get one of the deep soak overflow drain kits for an additional 2". It is a 60" x 42" tub, which means I will need to move the drain "sideways" about 5". This means I will have to chip out or cut out a little concrete but not much. I will then definitely have to get up under the slab to cut off the existing P trap and glue a new one on to the new location. I'm planning to overcut the concrete and dig out ample dirt to hopefully make the drain work less scary and easier. After the drain is done, the rest is easy. They will install the tub all I have to do really is put up the walls and hook up the drain.
 
Making progress...
 

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Here's where I stand tonight. Basically done. Got cultured marble coming to be installed tomorrow. Should be bathing on Saturday!
 

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