Is it ok to offset the vertical pipe above a P trap (tub install)?

[snrusnak]

Hello, I haven't posted on here in a long time. I'm replacing the fiberglass tub/shower insert in our master bathroom with a new acrylic deep soaking tub. It is the american standard evolution, which has a unique overflow that gives a much deeper soaking depth. The issue is the drain outlet does not line up with my existing drain in the ground. It is a house on slab, I've already dug out all the tar and dirt in the access hole in the concrete. I have it dug out all the way to the end of the P trap, but it's so far up under the slab that I'm afraid to try to cut it and rework it when I can't really even see it, it'd basically be by feel. I've found 1/16 bend (22.5 deg) elbows that give me the proper location and height but I do not know if this is ok to offset the vertical leg of above the P trap. Any help is appreciated. I need to make a decision if this is OK I'll glue it together, if not I'll take the dive off the deep end and attempt to cut up under the slab where I can't hardly see, and I have copper supply lines right there too.

Thanks. I'm trying to figure out how to attach a picture...lol

 

[snrusnak]

Here's another picture, may show the offset better...

 

[snrusnak]

I also now live in Gulfport, MS, not Orlando. I'll try to figure out how to update that as well...

 

[justin_dewan90]

Honestly, I've seen worse. My opinion, at this point you are either safer breaking up more flooring, and connecting further down. Or do what you are doing. If it's SOLID, and will work. I'm okay with it. Some others might not, but it kind of is what it is.

 

[snrusnak]

I really can't break up more concrete/floor as it runs up under my toilet room which has solid wood floors. If I tear them up I'd have to replace with something else. Every square inch of my house has identical flooring and I don't really want to have the toilet room be something else.

I think I could cut the trap off with a sawzall, then use an inside the pipe pvc cutter on my drill to cut the pvc beyond the trap. Then glue a new coupling, extension, and trap on. BUT, it's a royal pain and I'm slightly worried about working way up under the slab like that, where I can't hardly access. If what I have with this offset is perfectly acceptable I'll just go with it.

Thanks for the response.

 

[justin_dewan90]

Don't blame you, cutting where you can't see is bad enough. If you had plans to completely renovate I'd tell you the former of my original post. Since you don't, it's really a gamble on making sure everything will be right if you try to cut further back and do it the way you said. Just glad you're not using 90's!!

 

[justin_dewan90]

Only question is how the pvc is going to be solid on the copper? Can't see it in the photo.
Whoops looked closer. Did see the scratched off part. You are gluing onto pvc. Correct? Probably missed that part in one of your posts.

 

[snrusnak]

Yes all the pvc is glued. The copper (brass I believe, actually) is slip fit with a nylon or rubber (or whatever, same as under your sink) gasket/washer and a nut that tightens it down. That brass piece in the photo screws onto the sanitary TEE under the tub which TEE's to the overflow and the drain.

 

[snrusnak]

If this would ever have to be snaked, I don't think it would cause an issue. The snake would go through the overflow (which is on top of the tub, not on the side wall like normal), and straight down into the 22.5 deg offsets then through the trap. I can look through that brass piece and see straight into the trap where it's holding water, so can't imagine this would really be an issue. But I'm not a plumber.......

 

[snrusnak]

Well I just found something online, that I supposed is used when a floor joist or something is in the way of the drain pipe. I've attached a picture. Surely if this is a product made by a plumbing supplier, then the small offset I'm doing would be OK

 

[justin_dewan90]

My bad dude, miscommunication, I thought it was brass at the bottom of the 22. If it's already pvc at the trap, they make pvc overflows. I'd feel better if you got one of those rather than brass. Just an extra threaded joint to eventually leak at.

 

[justin_dewan90]

Glue overflows to clarify, sorry.

 

[justin_dewan90]

Something along these lines.

 

[snrusnak]

I see. I unfortunately can't use that with this tub due to it's unique overflow. See the attached picture of the overflow kit. They actually also make a black plastic one instead of brass, I think it's ABS. I have both and was planning on using the brass as I figured it was better/stronger than the plastic.

 

[justin_dewan90]

I'd choose brass over gluing or connecting abs onto pvc.

 

[Mr_David]

The offset is okay but I don't like the slip nut joints on brass assemblies, they can come loose.
Especially if they are not accessible. when attaching a brass to plastic I use a female adapter and screw the tee into it.
I currently replacing a shower pan and the old cast drain was rotten. back to back with a bath tub. had to replace rotten double fixture tee.
reconnected to exiting brass tub waste. others used a slip joint and a p-trap with a union.
when possible we soldered the brass joints

to make it more permanent.

 

[snrusnak]

Thanks for the response and help. I see what you mean about the threaded coupling vs slip joint. I can see if I can find one locally. One question though, how would I install this? I was planning to install the drain, overflow, and TEE before setting the tub. One reason is ease (I only have a ~9"x9" access panel and it is partially blocked by copper supply lines, I can barely get one arm through. I can make the panel larger if needed, or even rip drywall down and patch it back, that's no problem. But with the slip joint I intended to have an extra person help me set the tub, and guide the TEE down into the PVC. Then all I'd have to do is adjust and tighten the slip joint.

 

[snrusnak]

I also have a black plastic drain kit (same as the brass one I have, just plastic). I think it's ABS. Would that be a better option for a slip joint?

Or should I really be set on eliminating the slip joint? If that's the case I think I'm going to have to tear down some drywall.

 

[snrusnak]

I could also use the black plastic extension piece with the copper drain kit. This would give me a threaded plastic to brass connection (which I would use liquid thread sealant), then the slip joint would be plastic to plastic. What do you think about that? I would honestly have thought the brass was a better choice, but I have limited experience...

 

[snrusnak]

This project came to a screetching halt today. I got the drain done, filled it in with dirt and tar, test fit the tub, then poured mortar and set the tub in it's final position. Got the drain all hooked up then stood next to the tub to admire a nice job done and noticed the tub is cracked near the overflow. Looking closer, there isn't even any fiberglass reinforcment at that spot, just gel coat. No wonder it's cracked. It may have been cracked the whole time (it's hard to see), or maybe happened during install, I'm not sure. But it is a very weak point.

So we rushed to pull it out before the mortar set up. I read a ton of bad reviews on this tub due to it's unique overflow design, and wish I would have listened to them. I'm strongly considering just returning this tub and not exchanging it, then buying either a kohler archer tub or a deep soak tub with a standard overflow setup.

I'm extremely frustrated right now!!! lol. And now that I've finished the drain, I bet I'll have to move it back to it's original position . I won't be able to do the same thing again as I had to cut as close to the trap as possible to get the height I needed, so if it needs moved, it means cutting the trap off up under the slab...