- Feb 9, 2021
- Reaction score
- United states
Best way to describe it is it stops turbulence on the domestic side from effecting itThe check valve is to hold constant pressure after the device, I install them everytime I ,or our shop install one we used have chattering backflows, and everytime we fine one that doesn't have one in front of it we install one,
Flushometers,quick opening electric valves lower the water pressure and cause the check valve to chatter it's not for cross contamination just to hold constant pressure on the device
Spring checks mostly regular swings if we don't have spring checks on the shelf we also have separate metersI believe I read that the OP installed a spring type check valve.
Does your shop install spring type or swing type ?
99% of our irrigation systems have their own meter. It’s not directly connected to the house water.
Irrigation meters are not charged sewer fee based off gallons used so everyone utilizes an irrigation meter for all outside watering needs if significant.
We don’t have these problems when a separate meter is used.
A few times I’ve had issues like this.
I installed 2 water hammer arrestors at the connection of the irrigation to the house water and a thermal expansion tank at the water heater. I installed the expansion tank first, no affect on the problem by itself.
It almost completely eliminated the hammer....
The hammer was occurring when a zone valve would shut off in my scenario.
Geofd wants the check valve before the atmospheric type backflow device. So you have it correct.Yeah in the area I live I don't think sprinkler meters are a thing, its just connected to the house water. The problem occurred before and after a spring check valve was installed so I'm inclined to think that it's not the root cause. Would it be an issue to have a check valve after the backflow preventer? If a faulty zone valve could be the issue I could easily replace it, is there a specific brand or type I should purchase?
Thanks, you guys are geniuses and I appreciate your help!
first step, strap all that stuff to the building
Water hammer makes that gauge pretty much useless.first step, strap all that stuff to the building
then buy a water test gauge with a 2nd indicator. this gauge will record a spike
install the gauge on the hose bib and let it sit for 24 hour
high spikes happen at night on city water supply,
If you are experiencing high spikes, the pressure could be causing the problem
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Yes you are correct. That is the very reason i said to strap that crap down first.Water hammer makes that gauge pretty much useless.
When the hammer starts it’s going to max tattle on the gauge out and not tell you anything other than you have water hammer which you already know is happening.
That is why i said to strap the damn pipe
he’s already checked pressure and it’s around 50 psi.
he checked it during the day . he did not check at night when it spikes
If he uses that gauge he would need to turn off anything with a quick closing valve or it’ll spike it, not giving an accurate tattle.
Strapping pipe doesn’t stop the pressure spike from an auto valve.Yes you are correct. That is the very reason i said to strap that crap down first.
AFTER, the piping is strapped off. As I mentioned in my GD answer
THEN. install the gauge that I showed.
For those that have no clue
City water spikes in the wee mornings because every one is asleep
a 150 psi spike can ruin that apallo,
As I suggested in my original answer. Strap the pipe, then check for early morning spikes.
IF a spike is occurring. install a PRV on the main line after the meter
My answer is i have done it dozens of times and you are wrongStrapping pipe doesn’t stop the pressure spike from an auto valve.
In fact it would make the pressure gauge spike higher because the pipe moving dissipates energy, if the pipe can’t move the gauge would read a little higher. True or false ?
So I’m not sure where you’re going with that.,
The tattle wil max out if an auto valve shuts. Ice maker, washing machine, fluidmaster, etc.
Making your tattle tale useless.
so you can’t just leave it on the hose Bibb all night and go look in the morning, unless you isolate from all fast closing valves during the test.
Am I wrong ? I’d love to hear your thoughts.
I do suggest you try it for yourself before you answer.
The best way to control water hammer is at its source. That’s why arrestors are placed as close to the source of the water hammer as possible.All of the above
the tattle tale registers a rise in pressure the only pressure a solenoid causes is in the immediate vicinity of that valve
If, A solenoid spiked the whole system then a PPP arrestor would only be needed in one bathroom in a building and not at each battery of fixtures
LOL Crazy.. Hey we can do away with water hammer arrestors on the 2nd floor We have one in the basement. LOL LOL
Again. a solenoid is not going to spike the whole system. And it damn sure is not going to spike anything from 50 psi to 150 psi. which is the number we are looking for
Feel free to continue to dig.