Icemake line RULES?

[House Doc]

Good morning
I have a customer that needs an icemaker line run to a new fridge. (No builder installed line) Now she tells me that it needs to have the stop BEHIND the fridge. If there was a leak it would be easier to reach under the kitchen sink for the stop than dragging the fridge out and finding a valve. But common sense doesn't seem to show up in these "must haves".

Also, that it needs to have brass "nut and ferrul" connectors instead of the push fittings that I usually use on small tubing. Not a problem, but I don't see the "upgrade" value.

Also, it can't be copper, which is fine since it's a pain to run it through the cabinets.

Also!, The installers said that they can't hook up to plastic, although the line on the fridge is, of course, plastic. They want a braided SS line.

The last problem I'm finding is trying to find an "inline" stop for 1/4" tubing that I can mount to the wall or cabinet side.

I've been doing this for 40+ years and of course she hits me with these "rules" after I've already run the line.

 

[Twowaxhack]

The refrigerator delivery idiots probably said that’s what they want or they won’t hook it up.

 

[House Doc]

The refrigerator delivery idiots probably said that’s what they want or they won’t hook it up.

That was my thought. But that's what the customer wanted. She had already paid me for the original install that was up to the codes I know.

 

[BlueSkyHigh]

I've been doing this for 40+ years and of course she hits me with these "rules" after I've already run the line.

More than one pioneering giant of retail has sworn by the motto, "The customer is always right." but this saying was invented by Harry Gordon Selfridge in 1909. Take heart and adjust the final pricing upward with every additional change to the "contract", verbal or written.

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

Nowadays, it's pretty common on new construction or remodeling to add an "outlet box" behind the refrigerator that has a shutoff.
Since ¼" poly line by itself has been known to break or leak or burst on occasion, it's not uncommon to have small braided lines that connect from the outlet box to the back of the fridge.
The seller/delivery team has probably had enough call backs and damage with plain old ¼" PE lines to insist upon something more robust. Happened to a friend of mine with a line above (I warned them about this but they wouldn't listen...) a drywall finished basement ceiling. The leaking line that fed the refrigerator caused many thousands of dollars of drywall damage in the finished basement. I told them to put in a drop ceiling...but they "didn't like the look".

What you COULD use is the two-way stops they often have on the hot water line under sink, to feed the dishwasher...use one on the cold water line to feed the refrigerator's ice maker with the braided line. There are a number of different varieties made, here's one. Connects to the cold water stub off, then presents two outlets; one for the faucet, the other for the refrigerator.

 

[Helper Dave]

'Round here (WI), you get 10 ft of "supply" piping for a fridge. That's the only rule I can think of. In new construction, we often install those in-wall boxes behind the fridge, but in older homes, most valves go in the basement, or under the sink if the basement ceiling isn't accessible.

 

[Twowaxhack]

Nowadays, it's pretty common on new construction or remodeling to add an "outlet box" behind the refrigerator that has a shutoff.
Since ¼" poly line by itself has been known to break or leak or burst on occasion, it's not uncommon to have small braided lines that connect from the outlet box to the back of the fridge.
The seller/delivery team has probably had enough call backs and damage with plain old ¼" PE lines to insist upon something more robust. Happened to a friend of mine with a line above (I warned them about this but they wouldn't listen...) a drywall finished basement ceiling. The leaking line that fed the refrigerator caused many thousands of dollars of drywall damage in the finished basement. I told them to put in a drop ceiling...but they "didn't like the look".

What you COULD use is the two-way stops they often have on the hot water line under sink, to feed the dishwasher...use one on the cold water line to feed the refrigerator's ice maker with the braided line. There are a number of different varieties made, here's one. Connects to the cold water stub off, then presents two outlets; one for the faucet, the other for the refrigerator.

Technically we're not allowed to use those double stops.

Each appliance or fixture must have its own stop valve.

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

Technically we're not allowed to use those double stops.
Each appliance or fixture must have its own stop valve.

Fair enough, and easier. Instead of some challenging to find part that's not legit, (and probably not on your truck) a couple of very standard stops and tees. Easy-peasy.

 

[Twowaxhack]

Fair enough, and easier. Instead of some challenging to find part that's not legit, (and probably not on your truck) a couple of very standard stops and tees. Easy-peasy.

I use them sometimes. Some places it doesn’t matter. Railway yard break room for instance. Camp house down on the river. Places like that.

 

[House Doc]

Nowadays, it's pretty common on new construction or remodeling to add an "outlet box" behind the refrigerator that has a shutoff.
Since ¼" poly line by itself has been known to break or leak or burst on occasion, it's not uncommon to have small braided lines that connect from the outlet box to the back of the fridge.
The seller/delivery team has probably had enough call backs and damage with plain old ¼" PE lines to insist upon something more robust. Happened to a friend of mine with a line above (I warned them about this but they wouldn't listen...) a drywall finished basement ceiling. The leaking line that fed the refrigerator caused many thousands of dollars of drywall damage in the finished basement. I told them to put in a drop ceiling...but they "didn't like the look".

What you COULD use is the two-way stops they often have on the hot water line under sink, to feed the dishwasher...use one on the cold water line to feed the refrigerator's ice maker with the braided line. There are a number of different varieties made, here's one. Connects to the cold water stub off, then presents two outlets; one for the faucet, the other for the refrigerator.

This is in southern California. If I was back in Illinois I could just pop a line and box up from the basement and everybody would be happy. But...
Accessing the water under the sink is resolved...
They want me to run braided line through the cabinets to the fridge, about 10 feet away. Not a problem.
What I can't find is an "inline" stop, connecting to the braided line, that I can mount to the wall or cabinet wall to satisfy the "shut off behind refrigerator" "rule". I've found a number of inline stops, but not any that are made to be mounted solidly to anything.

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

What I can't find is an "inline" stop, connecting to the braided line, that I can mount to the wall or cabinet wall to satisfy the "shut off behind refrigerator" "rule". I've found a number of inline stops, but not any that are made to be mounted solidly to anything.

Well, if you cannot mount the valve itself, get a couple of pieces of the shallow unistrut material (half slot B channel)
Get a pair of cushioned mounting clamps, "Cush a Clamp" is one of the brand names
Mount the assembly. The valve will be between the mounting clamps, and the clamps hold the tubing on either end.

Or, simpler:

Use what are called rubber lined, steel P-clips.
Do the same thing: mount on either side of the valve, holding the tubing in place.
Mount to a small piece of wood screwed to a wall stud.

None of this is particularly elegant or pretty. But it's all behind the fridge, right?

 

[Twowaxhack]

I’d just put a valve on it and let it flop with the rest of the stainless hose they want. It doesn’t matter if it strapped or not