How do you burn out the pipe from the lead? It never leaked just the t off snapped off while I was trying to hammer off the broken piece in the trap. Cause the galvanized pipe broke in the trap. Trying to remove the peice with a hammer and chisel broke off the t. I was thinking of adding a clean out on the pipe. The back side is accessible from the out side you can remove the panel to expose the pipes.
I need help!
- Thread starter traxxasx
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Traxxasx , I think you should jackhammer the floor to where the tub drain terminates (shouldn't be that far) and run new piping , make this a one time repair. If you have other issues in that bath later on at least you will not have to remove the tub again.
More burns by the stick or when wipeing. Did you do the candle trick to seal any voids ?
The main drain is just out side of the wall beind the wall and goes to the left straight out to the street. The smaller pipe that broke connects to a bigger pipe as you can see in the last pictures i show. I think its the stack? Then from there it goes somewhere. We never had a problem with the drain on this before until a girl dropped her razor blade tip down the drain and thats what clogged the p trap shut. Other than that it drains fine. Im on a budget and i would like to repair this as easy, but also so it will last. If it lasts another 10 years thats great. Im just scared the cast pipe will get to thin and break one day.
Im not quite sure on what you mean, on what you suggested to do.
The one of these that I have fixed, the lead closet bend was still in great shape, but the wiped joint to the brass ferrule had failed. Is this the normal failure point for these assemblies?
Yes, there and also where the lead is attached to the closet flange. I think the reason for this is because the lead has been worked on with lead dressers or hammers to fit inside the ferrule or over the flange making it thinner at that point.
John
