Hoping for an Xmas miracle of information/experience/best guess on partially blocked drain pipe

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irishswede13

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You will be my hero if you can get through this and help a desperate father out...4 girls and my wife all sharing one toilet is almost worse than the giant hole in my living room ceiling.

Back story (can skip...just a rant)
Our home is 6 years old. We had our 2nd floor toilet clog yesterday and used a plunger to attempt to dislodge the blockage, unfortunately in doing so we inadvertently "popped" the wax ring on the flange and gave our home a new, unexpected, water feature...we are 23 homes and 4 have had issues with the wax rings separating (set below the subfloor).

The Call out:
We called roto-rooter. He didn't have a snake on hand. Instead he scoped the line and was able to unblock it using his camera. He found that about 17 ft down the drain and 1 ft before the line drops (from horizontal to vertical) there appeared to be some construction debris in the line. In the image I would say it was obstructing about 1/5 of the pipe (looked like sawdust/small splinters of wood and maybe gypsum dust...when the house was being constructed i saw the drywall guys wash his tools in the sink) with a nice chunk of toilet paper sitting behind it. He suggested we cut out that section and use rubber clamps to splice in a pipe. He tried to charge us $650 for the camera...got it knocked down to $300. He said the other repair would run around $800-$1,200...I flip homes so I know that was extremely high...especially since I would be cutting the ceiling open...so we called another plumber out.

The Second Opinion:
The second plumber did not like the idea of compromising the integrity of our line - he said the rubber clamps would hold to get him past his warranty period of 1 year...but said they won't last long term. He suggested we either use a chemical to help break it down or use a rubber bladder to push the blockage down to the vertical part where it could go into the larger sewer line...or worst case would force the blockage into our crawlspace where it joins and he could weld in a new solid pipe.

Third Opinion:
This plumber didn't come out (fully booked), but he suggested that we just routinely flush a product called "Instant Power Main Line Cleaner". He said it is 100% safe and designed for even lateral obstructions. He also recommended against cutting out the obstruction unless it was metal or plastic debris. I think I annoyed him at how often I asked "is this safe on lateral ABS piping".

What do you fine gents think? And thank you so much in advance for the help...this has been an absolute nightmare.
 
If your handy, rent a snake pull the toilet snake the drain use a snake thats at least 3/8 in diameter 50-75' long snake it multiple times
Aim the toilet supply into the toilet pipe and flush for a while no cutting pipe,rubber clamps just snake and flush
 
If your handy, rent a snake pull the toilet snake the drain use a snake thats at least 3/8 in diameter 50-75' long snake it multiple times
Aim the toilet supply into the toilet pipe and flush for a while no cutting pipe,rubber clamps just snake and flush
Thank you for the reply. I have tried using my snake, but it really isn't doing much...the clog is cleared, but each time i run the snake it looks like I am almost pulling our grass (assuming it's degrading wood from the subfloor). I bought a jetter off amazon for our old house, but never ended up using it. Would that be another option? Is it pretty low-risk to use? Pipes are sound, 6 years old 3" ABS.
 
Depends on the diameter of you snake if it's even doing anything if it's one you would use on a bath sink hour wasting your time it's gotta be something at very least 3/8 in diameter or larger with an assortment of heads or you could call a professional drain cleaning and jetting co,
 
Putting a camera in a line that short should be about $100.00 maybe a little more.
His estimates were all crazy high.
 
Call out another plumber, number two and three were also clowns.
Well paid a trip charge for another to come out. He put down a camera (no charge beside the $75 trip charge). He said my obstruction is resting on the bottom of the drain pipe 17' down and is about 10-20% clogged. I mentioned that I got a jetter and he said that is the route that he would go. He said if I get it past the elbow, and down the stack, that the pipe emptys into my 6 inch sewer drain which will have no issues removing it. I never used a jetter before, is it pretty straightforward? He used my toilet supply line to make sure the water is passing through so he said I should be good. He said the elbow goes through my 8x12 support beam and would be a nightmare to cut and replace...he quoted me about $1,200...better than Roto's $2,500+ (although I think that was including ceiling repair...which I have no idea what that would cost?)

The blockage appears to be some wood fibers, grout sand and some hair...if that matters
 
Depends on the diameter of you snake if it's even doing anything if it's one you would use on a bath sink hour wasting your time it's gotta be something at very least 3/8 in diameter or larger with an assortment of heads or you could call a professional drain cleaning and jetting co,
The plumber that came out said that I would be paying about $400-$600 to get the line proffessionally jetted in this area (he charges even more because he also scopes it to the main line to ensure its cleared). He saw all the damage and repairs we have to do (unfortunately I will be losing my job of 15yrs at the end of January and our Homeowner's deductible is $6,120...so I am trying to keep the repairs down). He said that his son-in law bought the Clog Hog as well and it did a great job for him...I just hope he wasn't just saying that because he saw how desperate I was.
 
For $50.00 to $100.00 you can get your own waterproof inspection camera/endoscope on Amazon.
Some have cables up to 30 feet or even longer.
If your clog is just 17 feet away, with no tricky bends on the way to it, you should be able to use one of these cheap scopes.
To monitor your progress.
Then I would try a conventional drain snake first, a thicker cable as Geofd advised.
You can buy or rent one cheaply.

However, pros on here might have much better advice!
 
Just an Update, and curious what you knowledgeable folks think it could be. I jetted the line from both toilets and the water moved easily through. I replaced the one toilet and still no issue...shower drained fine and everything...then I placed the second toilet on and suddenly the issue returned. They have our DWV tied into the pipe for the tub overflow...is it possible our DWV is the culprit?
 
Just an Update, and curious what you knowledgeable folks think it could be. I jetted the line from both toilets and the water moved easily through. I replaced the one toilet and still no issue...shower drained fine and everything...then I placed the second toilet on and suddenly the issue returned. They have our DWV tied into the pipe for the tub overflow...is it possible our DWV is the culprit?
Only the second toilet backed up???
Are you saying the toilet connects to the tub drain before it enters the main drain??????
 
I can’t picture your drain setup from your explanation.
But if you had a big chunk of hardened drywall compound and other construction debris laying on the bottom of the pipe, water will of course easily flow over it.
But toilet paper and poop will slide along and stop right there, and will soon build up into a dam, after flushing several poops.
I think you should open the ceiling or floor under that clogged section, remove it, and splice in new pipe.
 
Buy your own cheap camera as I suggested, you can look right at the problem without guessing or wondering.
$40.00 or so, much cheaper than a plumber.
 
Only the second toilet backed up???
Are you saying the toilet connects to the tub drain before it enters the main drain??????
No the whole line is plugged up, but the issue only came up after installing the second toilet...on that stack we have our shower/bathtub and 2 toilets. I installed the 1 toilet 2 days ago and had everyone use it...there was no issues and the shower would empty as fast as it filled. I then installed the second toilet on that drain line today and the issue we had before came back again...slow to drain shower, toilets gurgling and draining slow on flush.
 
Buy your own cheap camera as I suggested, you can look right at the problem without guessing or wondering.
$40.00 or so, much cheaper than a plumber.
We got a little camera, but the issue is it will not make the turn on me...just hangs where to makes the angle.
 
This is the setup...the nearest pipe is the vent the next 2 are the overflow/shower...and from where I am taking the picture from is the toilet drain. What I can't figure out is how we jettied it and it was great, but then started to have issues. Would having it snaked fix the construction debris? A local company is running a $93 we will unclog your drain or it's free deal....but who knows how good they try.
 

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If you install the second toilet and prob lems start 1st you have to clear that line
Flush it with lots of water camera if you can then reset the toilet refill it but only use the other toilet for a day or so then switch to the toilet in question
 
I am not a pro...but silly question...should the P-Trap not be placed under the tub drain instead of placing it on the vent pipe? Had another plumber come out and we opened the sealing where the "clog" is - per roto. It could not be in a worse spot, he quoted me about $1,500 to replace that section. Essentially he would have to open a large area of the ceiling and replace the whole section of piping (it goes straight through an 8x12 beam). He too did not have his snake on hand, but is coming out today and charging me a flat $100 for it.

Is it possible that the p-trap, that I think was erroneously installed under my ventilation pipe and not my tub drain, if it were clogged could that account for our issues (if air cannot get into the line...there is another vent attached to the drain about 20 ft further down....maybe that would account for the issue? When the toilet was off it was able to get air...but when it is sealed it is creating negative pressure?
 
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