Help with Artesian well

[rgarry]

Let me start off by saying that I have basic plumbing skills but haven't tackled a project like this. I have a free flowing 4" artesian well that has fairly good pressure to it. The area is remote and has no power. I originally hooked it up to solar valves and ran irrigation with poly tube. Works ok but not great. Decided to add an RPS solar pump. Here is where my problems begin. I will need to take off the well seal and drop the pump down. The well will be free flowing at that point. I was planning on having pump all set up and mounted to a new well seal with a 4" 2ft section with connector on it. I have to run the wires through the 3/4 hole and was playing on epoxying the cord so it doesn't leak. I was then going to drop the pump down and then use the glue that is able to be put on in wet applications and then drop the 4 " section with seal on to existing pipe. I figured that this would be easier than trying to get seal on with water flowing out. Anyone see any issues?

 

[Valveman]

I would make it where it is easy to remove as those pumps are probably not very long lasting. How about hole sawing a hole close to the ground or hot tapping a ball valve at that location? Then you could open the ball valve for the casing to flow and it would be dry above to work on your well seal.

 

[rgarry]

I thought of a ball valve but the poly pipe and electrical wire need to run the length of it and so no way to actually shut it off. If it works then the next time will be easier. I guess I figured wet gluing a 4" slip connector would be easier than trying to get the well seal on under pressure. I guess I will know once I try. We are 45" to a hardware store so any flowing water will last for a couple of hours and cause significant erosion.

 

[Valveman]

No I am talking about a different line from the electrical. Just a ball valve for a drain only at the ground level. Your wire still needs to go through the top of the well cap. The wires still need to be sealed so you close the drain valve when finished working on the well cap. But as long as the drain valve is open the well cap stay dry to work on and let epoxy dry around the wires.

 

[rgarry]

I think I follow you. I think that is an excellent idea and I appreciate the suggestion.

 

[rgarry]

Ended up have a pre made T that I glued just as I lifted we’ll cap off. Water was coming up about 2ft but was able to get fitting on. Then added a 10 ft section to lower T which diverted water off the embankment. I then lower pump down. Ran the wire and low water shut off out of 3/4 hose and used job weld to seal it and then closed well without any leaking. Used rps solar pump with 4 panels and 4 batteries and works great.

 

[JG plumbing]

Ended up have a pre made T that I glued just as I lifted we’ll cap off. Water was coming up about 2ft but was able to get fitting on. Then added a 10 ft section to lower T which diverted water off the embankment. I then lower pump down. Ran the wire and low water shut off out of 3/4 hose and used job weld to seal it and then closed well without any leaking. Used rps solar pump with 4 panels and 4 batteries and works great.

Do you mind sharing the solar system you used here?

 

[RS]

This is what the top of our casing looks like, there is a positive seal down about 7 feet, above the pitless adapter. The well had a 12 foot positive head, if it weren't for the seal it would be gushing out the top. If the pump ever fails I will loosen the set screws and pull it out, and see what i have, after I have built something to contain the water that's going to gush out!