Help: Replace Main Shut Off Valve

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CWC

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Apr 12, 2011
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Location
Winnipeg, Manitoba
Hi:

I need to replace the main water supply shut off valve because the existing valve passes water and leaks. The valve is located in the basement directly downstream of the water meter, as shown in attached a photos. The City will turn off water to my house so I can work on the valve.

I want to replace the existing valve with a new ball valve and have some concerns / questions:

1. The face to face dimensions of the existing valve is 2-1/4 inches? I found a threaded ball valve with face to face dimension of 2-5/16 inches. Will the new ball valve work in the space or will the 1/16 inch difference cause problems when I try to reassemble the piping? For example, will I need a shorter piece of pipe between the valve and the meter?

2. There's tamper proof copper wire on the bolt immediately upstream of the valve. Is is okay to cut this wire or is it a code violation?

3. I'm assuming the bolt connection at the meter is a compression joint. Possibly flared end. What do you think? Do you think this joint will reseal after being taken apart and put back together with the same pipe?

4. Do I need to use any thread compound (pipe dope) at the joints. Any brand names I should try?

5. Would it be better to cut out the existing valve, the downstream elbow, and the threaded portion of the upstream pipe and replace with new copper pipe and valve. In this case I would have to use sweat joints. The pipe between the valve and the meter could be brass so I'm not sure a sweat joint will work?

I would appreciate any advice or suggestions you have.
Thanks for your help.

CIMG0744.jpg

CIMG0745.jpg
 
If the city is going to come out to shut off the water, they should be able to replace the tamper wire when the connection is done. I myself would use Rectorseal #5 to coat the threads, and the flared union (which contains the tamper wire) is where you would start the disassembly. It should be an easy fix.
 
Hi:

I need to replace the main water supply shut off valve because the existing valve passes water and leaks. The valve is located in the basement directly downstream of the water meter, as shown in attached a photos. The City will turn off water to my house so I can work on the valve.

I want to replace the existing valve with a new ball valve and have some concerns / questions:

1. The face to face dimensions of the existing valve is 2-1/4 inches? I found a threaded ball valve with face to face dimension of 2-5/16 inches. Will the new ball valve work in the space or will the 1/16 inch difference cause problems when I try to reassemble the piping? For example, will I need a shorter piece of pipe between the valve and the meter? Should be fine, there should be 1/16 of play throughout that setup.2. There's tamper proof copper wire on the bolt immediately upstream of the valve. Is is okay to cut this wire or is it a code violation? When they come out to turn off the water talk to them because it is their meter and they do that so they know if you are trying to steal water, they should read the meter before this and then redo the wire after.3. I'm assuming the bolt connection at the meter is a compression joint. Possibly flared end. What do you think? Do you think this joint will reseal after being taken apart and put back together with the same pipe? It should be just like a hose to a spigot, the nipple on the left of the meter is not a nipple, it has a flat end that stops that nut from coming off and there is a meter gasket inside that should be replaced, you can get them from any waterworks supply house.
4. Do I need to use any thread compound (pipe dope) at the joints. Any brand names I should try? As Havasu said Rectorseal No.5 is the best stuff around. You can get it at any big box store
5. Would it be better to cut out the existing valve, the downstream elbow, and the threaded portion of the upstream pipe and replace with new copper pipe and valve. In this case I would have to use sweat joints. The pipe between the valve and the meter could be brass so I'm not sure a sweat joint will work? No this seems like a simple fix, pop the meter out unscrew the nipple and valve and put the new one on.I would appreciate any advice or suggestions you have.
Thanks for your help.

.............
 
Hi Guys:

Thanks answering my questions. I'll pick up the parts and change the valve next week.

I provide an update with some photos for any other DIYers out there that are interested.

Thanks again.
 

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