Help determining maximum sink depth I can put in

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Frodo,

That is a nice suggestion. I did not think of it at all and it kind of confirms what my wife complains.. That I always complicate simple things :)

Can you explain why the picture 4 in your drawing is not acceptable. Before I saw that drawing my plan was to do it that way. Anyway I trust you and I am going to use this from home depot:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DBHL-Plastic-Garbage-Disposal-Installation-Kit-HP9104/202882849

What are your thoughts on this.

One other dumb question; the drain pipe connection looks like it is 2" and is bigger than the drain connection. Would it cause any issues if I swap the connections? Of course I don't know what is behind the drywall.

Thank you for all the advise.
 
the reason #4 is wrong is the over use of 90 degree bends.

drains hate 90 degree bends, stuff starts to pile up at those over time,

your hom dept..NO,,that is a running trap and illegal.


why not do it the simple easiest way?

K.I.S.S.:D

http://screencast.com/t/2zEr8JmSB

23141d1249685597-picture-diagram-double-sink-plumbing-garbage-disposal-kitchendrain-1-.jpg
 
Thanks for the info and links for the electrical Kultulz! Not trying to hijack the thread, but I find that very interesting. Had to look up AFCI. I need to learn more and those links are handy. I've been thinking of getting a whole house surge protector-- it wouldn't stop the problems of the wires frying or coming loose outside the house (which has happened a few times in the past couple of years), but it could at least protect the appliances. I'll have to ask some questions on the electrical section of the houserepairtalk forum.

Frodo, am I right that 90s are basically only allowed for vents? I know they have long sweep bends instead-- but I think the simple one makes much more sense.

sankarnkp, I think you will find that hardware stores still sell plumbing configurations that are not allowed. They sell S-trap kits and AAVs and neither of those are allowed where I live (well, S-traps are not allowed anywhere as far as I know)
 
Thanks for explaining that, Frodo!
 
Thanks for the info and links for the electrical Kultulz! Not trying to hijack the thread, but I find that very interesting. Had to look up AFCI. I need to learn more and those links are handy.

I've been thinking of getting a whole house surge protector-- it wouldn't stop the problems of the wires frying or coming loose outside the house (which has happened a few times in the past couple of years), but it could at least protect the appliances. I'll have to ask some questions on the electrical section of the houserepairtalk forum.

Just a thought on surge protection. A whole house protector (electric service-cable-phone combined is best) will only protect from most outside surges. Transient surges within the house wiring also need either a surge protector receptacle or surge protector strip. Also research isolated ground circuits.

Below are illustrations of DW-GD circuit before 2014 NEC-

DW-GD Wiring Diagram _1 (Pre-2014 NEC).jpg

DW-GD Wiring Diagram _2 (Pre- 2014 NEC).jpg
 
Kultulz, , disposal and dishwasher , "each" have to have a dedicated circuit

Correct.

I mentioned
Below are illustrations of DW-GD circuit before 2014 NEC

I was referencing the OP duplex receptacle under the sink and how it should have been wired before the need to comply with AFCI and GFCI codes. It was then common to have both DW and GD on one breaker.

Actually, it all depends on the local AHJ and their interpretation and compliance with the NEC and under what conditions one can grandfather older circuitry in.

But I would rather go to the extreme and bring it into current compliance for safety and future electrical appliances.
 
Friends,

I finally finished the project. The pipe was vertical behind the wall and I brought the whole Sani-T down by 4". I also moved the disposer to the right side sink.

Thank you all for your help.

Cheers!!
 

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