Good choice for replacement diverter-yoke for this shower?

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Ars Glonalin

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Hi all,

I'm replacing the plumbing for this shower.
One of the valves developed a leak when running
that showed up in the ceiling on the first floor.

i think this plumbing is original to the house which was
built mid-1970's. The valves look and feel worn out,
the plastic handles sre hazed and dated, so it's time for
a new yoke, diverter, spout, and trim.

--looking for recommendations for the yoke (mixer+diverter). --
Does the trim typically match any valve or is it best to get all the same brand?

Is one brand a better choice than another: Kohler, PricePfister, Grohë, Hansgrohë, the list probably goes on and on

I don't want to disturb the tile if I can help it, and there's access on the back of the partition wall - I'll cut the sheetrock to make access. There are no shutoffs and no access panel, so that's job #1.A4E43D4F-B7A8-4E06-B07C-0A00C0BBC2F2.jpeg
6BA9E6F9-4CF0-4725-9B06-BA62F4303C29.jpeg
I'd rather spend what it takes to get good stuff, but not doing anything real fancy - may put a vertical rail for the hand-held showerhead....
 

Ars Glonalin

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Thanks y'all. Looking at various shower sytems now.

If I can find one with a wide enough back it might install over the cutouts for the current valves. But I still have to install shutoff valves as the house wad built without any.
 

Twowaxhack

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Your existing valves look like Kohler. You could get all new parts and most likely metal handles.
 

Jeff Handy

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Some companies sell a wide oval or wide diamond shaped remodeling trim that will fit their newer single handle valves, but will cover up the old tile holes.

You would still need to cut a bigger hole in the middle, I like to use Rotozip with a tile bit, even though the brittle bits will break pretty often.

There is very little vibration, so the surrounding tiles don’t get loose or cracked.
 

Riickk

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Some companies sell a wide oval or wide diamond shaped remodeling trim that will fit their newer single handle valves, but will cover up the old tile holes.
Delta used to have a retail kit for that conversion. Last time I saw one was....... a long time ago. Still, that would be fast & clean solution.

Here's one - 9 inches wide, if that's enough to cover existing holes? LINK

Otherwise, given that what you have is standard 4-1/4 inch tiles; You could remove a square, rectangle, or pattern of tiles, change the valve, and install new tiles in ? a contrasting color ? ((Trying to match color is virtually impossible.))
 
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Twowaxhack

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The remodel plate is 9” top to bottom.

That’s 4.5 “ from the center of a valve to the edge of the remodel plate, if you cheat the hole a little you can get a little more.


The spout would have to be moved lower.

If it worked the spout would be near the rim of the tub. Might work though.
 

Twowaxhack

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I believe this is the rebuild kit for your valve.
I would need better pics from you to be 100%

This might be an option you’re interested in rather than replacing the valve.

 

SHEPLMBR

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Delta used to have a retail kit for that conversion. Last time I saw one was....... a long time ago. Still, that would be fast & clean solution.

Here's one - 9 inches wide, if that's enough to cover existing holes? LINK

Otherwise, given that what you have is standard 4-1/4 inch tiles; You could remove a square, rectangle, or pattern of tiles, change the valve, and install new tiles in ? a contrasting color ? ((Trying to match color is virtually impossible.))
MOEN makes one as well
 

Riickk

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Whoops... The manufacturer says:
The plate is 8 1/8" tall and 13" wide. The center hole is 5 1/8" in diameter and the screws are 9" apart.
 

Ars Glonalin

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Hmm, have to open the wall behind, regardless, because the valve was leaking from several spots, the rigged up showerhead tube was leaking down the wall from the fitting inside the wall and outside. Plus it's all 'rigged', I want to install a rail with some 2x blocking lagged into the studs; going to put cutoff valves to service the shower for decades down the road, and so I can turn the water right back on.

I recognize that I'll have to cut some of the tile to fit a new fixture, rotozip might be a great way to go - might try a carbide blade on my oscillating saw cause I already have it, but, hmmm, get a new tool?! Yezzz.

With 8" on center valveset, I need 10 1/2" minimum, comfortably 11" wide x 3" tall to cover the existing holes and any edge around them. My first idea within HER constraint of not retiling, was to have a stone compsny make me a piece, nicely edged with holes cut already to match whatever valve we settle on. Maybe $75 all polished. It's one more 3d setup for them, they save a file, and they can crank out ghe pieces in down time.

Turns out that at least one other maker has a 3-outlet faucet. Gröhe makes such a valve anyway, and it's less than Kohler, but a vertical rectangle so that idea would take adaption. There is the idea of a 'smitty plate' they just don't look so great.
 

Ars Glonalin

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@Riickk - if I could stand to save $100's, that - or one like it - might be a winner. It is a good looking piece. I thought they always looked so cheap, but this one is not bad, thanks
 

Jeff Handy

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Oscillating saw puts lots of vibrational and also push/pull stress on the tile and subsurface.
Tiles can crack or start popping off, too violent.
Roto zip is more elegant, precise, and does not stress the structure or tiles at all.
Go slow, and expect to break lots of the tile cutting bits, they are brittle.
WEAR SAFETY GLASSES!
Or expect to wear an eyepatch later.
 

Twowaxhack

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I’d bet dollars to doughnuts that tile is on a double layer of drywall.

I’d rip all that out, install a simple pressure balanced valve.
 

Jeff Handy

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I’m looking at that long edge on the bullnose tile.
That looks like it might be a tile job installed over old existing tile.
So double layer.
 

Ars Glonalin

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Last bath I built from studs, put in studs and two layers of greenboard. The tub-surround had geenboard with cementboard just under the tile. It was a tight space, but the added layer of board helped keep it quieter, and no shifting or cracking.
 

Ars Glonalin

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Looking into it, the Delta plate is plastic, Moen 1920 is chromed-brass.

Still looking for a one piece does it all type! ;)
 
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