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Diyplumbheat2

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Saratoga, NY
I have 3 zones and the 2nd floor gets no heat, I bleed the lines and no water would come out. I filled the lines with a hose, still nothing. I added a Watts feed/pressure regulated and a few shark bites. There is no feeder in this furnace set up.
 

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new problem existing? Ball valves to the 2nd floor zone wide open? close off other zones and see if the 2nd floor heats up? You have no flow apparently going to that zone. Start their let me know
 
Also, on the side of the boiler, near the expansion tank., whats the psi on the gauge at?, If the ball valve is open, you will have to add water to the system, by lifting the metal tab latch on the auto water feeder on the supply line, so it adds water manually, for the 2nd floor if your 2nd floor has no water.
 
I will let you know the psi soon, the plumber said I didn’t have a feeder line, this was virtual. So I bought a watts feeder/regulator. Still nothing, I closed the line and then used my washing machine water supply for the pressure and filled all 3 lines for 5 mins.
still now when I open a line to bleed it and put mywatts feeder valve up nothing. I changed the valve and stem on zone 2.Co coach of mine said to open this manually I will send a pic.
so your saying to shut furnace, closeother 2 lines and open the one not producing heat and bleed it that way?
Again second pic, I was told to open manual but I don’t what to do after I open it. That is the pressure from yesterday, once I get back to my basement I’ll look again. And I don’t know if I should leave this ball valve open or closed and when, Watts feeder valve right now, does s***. Ty so much for this, I’ve been doing this for 3 days, it’s all I can think about, I even think I dreamed about it, ha. Ty so much. Sending pic of this ball valve with shark bites
 

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I will let you know the psi soon, the plumber said I didn’t have a feeder line, this was virtual. So I bought a watts feeder/regulator. Still nothing, I closed the line and then used my washing machine water supply for the pressure and filled all 3 lines for 5 mins.
still now when I open a line to bleed it and put my watts feeder valve up nothing. I changed the valve and stem on zone 2.Co coach of mine said to open this manually I will send a pic.
so your saying to shut furnace, close other 2 lines and open the one not producing heat and bleed it that way?
Again second pic, I was told to open manual but I don’t what to do after I open it. That is the pressure from yesterday, once I get back to my basement I’ll look again. And I don’t know if I should leave this ball valve open or closed and when, Watts feeder valve right now, does s***. Ty so much for this, I’ve been doing this for 3 days, it’s all I can think about, I even think I dreamed about it, ha. Ty so much. Sending pic of this ball valve with shark bites
LOL., DM me., i probably can walk you thru over the phone.,
But the Picture on the Far Right is the auto water FEED to the boiler. Your PSI should be min 12 PSI upt to 17 PSI on the far LEFT picture.,

So I assume*** The picture to the FAR Right is the Feed that goes to the Ball valve picture... That should always be on. Now the Far Right picture., that feed is set to a specific PSI., So to bypass and add more., you lift the metal tab so its pointing straight up... But you do not want to over pressurize the boiler., or it will spill out...
So yes, let me know., maybe I can walk u thru over the phone., thru duo or something, facetime, it should be a simple problem. The picture to the 2nd to the left is your ZONE REGULATORS., make sure the wires are good., it should be the same as the other 2., thats basically an auto ball vavle., and that can cut your flow as well.
 
START HERE
On the Zones., the one to ZONE 2 SLIDE the valve to OPEN., and close the other 2 half way, the picture on the 2nd from the LEFT. That will make sure the valve to Zone 2 is open., and cut some flow to the other 2 ZONES!

we need to direct flow to zone 2., the Regulator could be the issue, that's stopping the FLOW., preventing water from moving to that zone., check to make sure it's wired just like the others., and that its reading good at the thermostat... Easy trick is to Swap Zone 2 wires an switch it directly with another zone...

If then, Zone 2 does work and the other zone does not. We've isolated the problem...
 
Make sure the zone valve is working. Make sure its calling for heat on the thermostat and check to see it the lever
on the zone valve lifts up easily. It can't work hard.
 
START HERE
On the Zones., the one to ZONE 2 SLIDE the valve to OPEN., and close the other 2 half way, the picture on the 2nd from the LEFT. That will make sure the valve to Zone 2 is open., and cut some flow to the other 2 ZONES!

we need to direct flow to zone 2., the Regulator could be the issue, that's stopping the FLOW., preventing water from moving to that zone., check to make sure it's wired just like the others., and that its reading good at the thermostat... Easy trick is to Swap Zone 2 wires an switch it directly with another zone...

If then, Zone 2 does work and the other zone does not. We've isolated the problem...
START HERE
On the Zones., the one to ZONE 2 SLIDE the valve to OPEN., and close the other 2 half way, the picture on the 2nd from the LEFT. That will make sure the valve to Zone 2 is open., and cut some flow to the other 2 ZONES!

we need to direct flow to zone 2., the Regulator could be the issue, that's stopping the FLOW., preventing water from moving to that zone., check to make sure it's wired just like the others., and that its reading good at the thermostat... Easy trick is to Swap Zone 2 wires an switch it directly with another zone...

If then, Zone 2 does work and the other zone does not. We've isolated the problem...
 

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