Freestanding Tub Filler Faucet Install

Discussion in 'General Plumbing Help' started by Jayman, Dec 17, 2013.

  1. Dec 17, 2013 #1

    Jayman

    Jayman

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    I am remodeling my master bath and am installing a tub with a "Freestanding" Tub Filler. The one I purchased has 1/2" SS hoses that penetrate the base by a inch or so. The manufacturer does not include instruction for install. I am installing this on a concrete slab, my home is plumbed in CPVC. Any suggestions on how to plumb this up would be appreciated!
     
  2. Dec 18, 2013 #2

    phishfood

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    If you are saying that the SS hoses come out of the bottom of the freestanding faucet, than the concrete needs to be broken up, walls need to be cut open, and supply lines ran over to the future location of the faucet.
     
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  3. Dec 18, 2013 #3

    Jayman

    Jayman

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    Yes, I'm aware I need to break concrete. Attached is the pic from my demo. The two 1/2 lines coming from my slab are the supply line. The circle just in front of them are where the filler will be anchored. My first thought is to breakout just deep enough to hide the lines, accommodate tile etc. and then use 1/2" drop ear elbows to anchor them and turn up. Then I can insert a nipple so that they can be attached to the existing tub filler hoses. Any thoughts on a better strategy?? Thanks

    fillerpiping.jpg
     
  4. Feb 17, 2014 #4

    rpmbaja

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    I am trying to do the same thing. Would you share with me your end fix. I haven't bought the floor mounted tub filler yet but I do have the tub. I have a concrete slab with the plumbing open in the walls, new construction. Thanks so much for any help!
    Terry
     
  5. Feb 18, 2014 #5

    Jayman

    Jayman

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    I ended up having to build a small box for my tub filler to sit on top and tile over it. This allowed me a small space to make my connections below. It was very much a trial and error project. Needless to say it would have been a breeze if I had a wooden sub-floor and had complete access to the piping.

    My tub filler was basically just long pipe with two hoses coming out the bottom with almost no flexibility and almost no instructions. Not much for my $600.00 that's for sure. When you are looking for a filler see if you can view the instructions for install, how do the pipes/hoses exit the unit. Basically a general feel for how this thing is going to have to be installed. My 2 cents...
     
  6. Feb 19, 2014 #6

    rpmbaja

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    Thanks for the reply, we ended up at the same conclusion. One question does your unit feel a wobbly? When I installed the last one into sub floor properly the unit would move when you grasped the handheld. The faucet part is solid brass but the long tub part is thin and perhaps cheap. Did yours do the same.
    Thanks!
     
  7. Feb 20, 2014 #7

    phishfood

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    I just installed a very high end, heavy one earlier this week. While I wouldn't call it wobbly, it does have a bit of movement at the control/spout height.
     
  8. Feb 20, 2014 #8

    Jayman

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    No mine is anchored quit well so its solid. It has a SS mounting plate that I anchored to my homemade box. In the end however the unit had an internal leak and the distributor is exchanging it, no questions asked...Thank God. I did speak with one of their staff plumbers after the fact and he told me that typically if someone where installing one of these on a slab, they would actually create a space within their slab where the lines could connect, a shut-off valve could be installed etc. A little late for me...
     
  9. Sep 13, 2014 #9

    chastylr

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    I am preparing for to replace a deck mounted tub with a cast iron free standing tub. The drain will need to be relocated in the concrete slab and hot and cold water supply lines will need to be run in the slab. Since the spacing between the water lines and the drain must be exact, I have built a template out of hardibacker and attached drop ear elbows for the water supply to a copper bar that I threaded for the elbows and attached to the hardibacker board. Once I find out the diameter of the new drain, I will use a hole saw to cutout the template where it will slide over the drain. Hopefully, this will result in correct spacing once the template is grouted over. Once the tub is in place, a connecting rod will run between the riser tubes and the back of the over-flow drain (see picture).

    I have discussed this with the plumber that will do the job for me and he was concerned about the soldered connection below the slab. I was thinking about having the copper supply lines brazed to the copper elbows. Any thoughts on this? Prior to grouting the template in the concrete slab, I plan to place short lengths of 3" PVC over each of the elbows so the riser tubes can be replaced if needed. The PVC will be trimmed off level with the concrete and tiled over.

    Also, I will have the plumber install shut-off valves where the water lines originate under a cabinet.

    Any thoughts/comments on this plan?

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  10. Sep 13, 2014 #10

    IFIXH20

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    Why are you making a template, Your plumber should be able to do the job per manufacturer spec.
     
  11. Sep 13, 2014 #11

    chastylr

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    I just wanted to make sure the spacing was exact. With the elbows firmly attached to the template, the riser tubes could be unscrewed and replaced if needed. Is there a better way to do it without a template? The plumber said he needed to talk to the manufacturer (Kohler) about the connection being in the slab. He said is wasn't code to have soldered connections in the slab. What do you think about brazing the copper to the elbows?
     
  12. Sep 13, 2014 #12

    Mr_David

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    I like the template you made. Once you poor the slab there is no readjusting or realignment. you can braze the brass to copper but that kind of heat can crack the brass if not careful . Don't water cool it after it's brazed.
     
  13. Sep 13, 2014 #13

    Mr_David

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    Here's a claw tub I installed a few months ago. Not On a slab but not accessible from below once the floor was put down. the Tub was set and bolted down by others so the over flow was a little off. Good thing the top of the overflow rotated a little.

    Post a pic when you get it done and a few in between.

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  14. Sep 7, 2017 #14

    NickK

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    Not sure about all brands but Delta Freestanding Tub Faucets can be mounted to a concrete floor. They have instructions on how to do this. If you're worried about the "wobbly-ness" factor I'd advise you to consider going with a well known brand and installing only per the manufacturer's instructions. You can check out this guide to freestanding tub fillers - it has some useful information on the difference between expensive and inexpensive tub fillers plus it has an installation video. The installation video shows how these fixtures normally install on a wood floor but below the video you will see links to how it can be adapted to a concrete floor.
     

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