Freestanding tub drain connection

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Thom as Moe

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Hello. I have a freestanding tub I am installing. The drain connection provided is cheap to me.

Vanity Art brand. As shown in pics, the connection on the tub is a 1 1/2" threaded horizontal plastic. A mechanism to open the drain plug is also attached, the skinny hose connected to control knob on top of tub. Also has overflow drain.

They provided the awful flex pipe which I would rather not use. It's very thin, will catch debris etc.

I understand the proper way is to connect with a brass drain extension and connect to a flange connector such as a Jacuzzi MZ20000. I have around 8" in floor joist to bottom of P trap as shown in pic.

With the horizontal threaded drain connection, not sure how to add the brass drain extension? Add a threaded 90? I worry that the seemingly cheap plastic may crack when setting the tub and drain extension into the flange?

I could just get rid of the existing connections but that would render my drain control knob obsolete as well as the overflow drain.

I just don't want to use that flex pipe!

Thanks! Tom
 

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First off I have to say: Some idiot has used a PVC pressure fitting for drainage plumbing!!!!!!
That is so wrong. What does your p-trap look like?
That flex pipe is indeed a sure-fire trouble spot and not UPC approved at all.
I can't help you but to recommend buying a UPC name brand tub drain like Geberit cable drain; but, the drain would lay out completely differently.
People should not be buying off-brands. Only asking for trouble. We walk away if customers make those kinds of bad choices.
 
Agreed the flexy stuff is doomed to clog from hair and grease, and too thin, it is just an oversized bendy straw.

Looks like where the horizontal pipe enters that 90 elbow (by that gray tape junk) that the pipe is not fully inserted, the angle looks bad, prone to leak.

Too much purple primer showing, which to me means the pipe was backing out, not held long enough to fully weld.
 
You can install a step-on or thumb twist type of drain closure.
As far as the overflow, that is beyond me.
 
It also looks like the horizontal drain pipe is running UPHILL into the 90 elbow.

Probably because the street 90 backed out, and rose up, ruining the pitch.

Just my opinion.
 
Start over, hire a pro, this setup should be expected to last for at least fifty years, so what you pay a pro will be cheap when spread out over that long period.
 
The p trap wasn't installed, was just dry fitting it for alignment.
So, are there any flexible pipe options or ? better than the awful one provided? I would obviously prefer to hard plumb it but connections on bottom of tub make it nearly impossible without replacing it with a step on or twist release.
 

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The p trap wasn't installed, was just dry fitting it for alignment.
So, are there any flexible pipe options or ? better than the awful one provided? I would obviously prefer to hard plumb it but connections on bottom of tub make it nearly impossible without replacing it with a step on or twist release.
And yes, that pressure fitting was wrong, not planned on being used but was a rough estimate for p trap placement. What I had on hand at the moment.
 
They make flexible pvc hose, which can be solvent glued.

Very strong stuff, not ribbed, smooth inside.

It is very stiff, not flexible enough to make quick bends.

I have used it several times for plumbing the water lines for garden ponds.
It holds up to strong sump pump water pressure.

Probably not code for drain plumbing, but just mentioning since you asked.
 
I would never install something as junky as that cable drain plug under a tub.

Even an old trusty plunger style drain plug can be pulled out and replaced, right through the overflow cover.
 

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