Draining washer into septic

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If you vent outside the wall, you must route the vent pipe around the overhang so that the pipe extends above the roof level by at least 2ft I believe. Might be more if you get snow in your area.

A vent pipe isn't allowed to terminate under a soffit/overhang because it can carry harmful gases and those gases could flow into the soffit and contaminate the attic area or enter the home through the soffit. The pipe needs to terminate high enough above the roof that the gases won't likely re-enter the house. This means, it cannot terminate below or next to a window, attic vent, or HVAC vent.

The bend to go out of the wall must be at least 6-inches above the flood level of the highest fixture on the vent if you use a 45 degree or greater angle. Any horizontal runs in the vent pipe must have a 1/4-inch per foot slope upward.

If you don't go out through the roof, you could have a branch vent where the vent for your washing machine could meet up with the main vent stack in the attic or inside of a wall.
 
Has anybody ever seen a trap that makes a full loop? I was looking at some of the plumbing and the drain coming out of the shower makes a full loop before continuing to the main drain. Should it be doing this? I've never seen it before.
 
Where do the rest of your drains go if you bypass your tank frodo?

into the drain field, i bypassed the tank not the drain field

by bypassing the tank, i eliminate soap, hair, that kind of goo from entering tank.
all that enters tank is what ever is flushed.

i do not worry about cleaning solvents or anything else killing my little critters in the tank
 
if you vent outside the wall, you must route the vent pipe around the overhang so that the pipe extends above the roof level by at least 2ft i believe. Might be more if you get snow in your area.

A vent pipe isn't allowed to terminate under a soffit/overhang because it can carry harmful gases and those gases could flow into the soffit and contaminate the attic area or enter the home through the soffit. The pipe needs to terminate high enough above the roof that the gases won't likely re-enter the house. This means, it cannot terminate below or next to a window, attic vent, or hvac vent.

The bend to go out of the wall must be at least 6-inches above the flood level of the highest fixture on the vent if you use a 45 degree or greater angle. Any horizontal runs in the vent pipe must have a 1/4-inch per foot slope upward.

If you don't go out through the roof, you could have a branch vent where the vent for your washing machine could meet up with the main vent stack in the attic or inside of a wall.


nailed it !!!!!!
 
Has anybody ever seen a trap that makes a full loop? I was looking at some of the plumbing and the drain coming out of the shower makes a full loop before continuing to the main drain. Should it be doing this? I've never seen it before.

I'm not sure what you mean by "full loop". Do you have a drawing or photo?
 
into the drain field, i bypassed the tank not the drain field

by bypassing the tank, i eliminate soap, hair, that kind of goo from entering tank.

all that enters tank is what ever is flushed.

i do not worry about cleaning solvents or anything else killing my little critters in the tank

The soap/hair/grease may cause scum to directly enter your D-Box and leach field. You are not concerned? :confused:
 
This is the loop I was talking about. It's coming out of the shower.

Edit: sorry the picture is sideways. It wasn't on my phone...

image.jpg
 
What should I do with it Matt? Should I bring it down into a p trap and vent it? I'm running the washer drain from the left side of it about 3-5 feet away. Can I get away with making one vent for both drains? And if so where should this vent be located in reference to the 2 drains?

Also... Can I just leave it alone? If it'll be okay just like it is I'd rather not fool with it if I don't have to.
 
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Sometimes you just gotta ignore what's already been done. Until you get into a full on renovation, just leave the S trap alone. One project at a time.

Zanne has already provided you with a solid diagram to use as a guideline for your project. Once you get going, post pictures of your progress and we can guide you along to completion :)
 
Here is a rough sketch of what the shower plumbing should look like (assuming that the nearest wall is in the right spot)
tumblr_o5i27tNpgY1qhfuqwo1_500.png


Now, if the washing machine is less than 5 feet from that wall, you can run the trap arm from the washing machine and have it connect to that same vent with a sanitary tee inside the wall.

Or you can have a separate vent that travels up to above the flood level of the washing machine, then has a vent 90 on top to make it go horizontal (with a 1/4" upward slope) and have it meet the vent for the shower inside the wall. Alternatively, they can meet up in the attic and you would merge to whichever one is closest to the main vent stack. So, you might have the shower vent go up and meet with the washing machine vent instead.
With the S-trap the way it is, it will probably make things drain more slowly and might create clogs.

My shower/tubs are S-trapped and they take forever to drain. The water gets ankle deep or higher while I'm taking a shower. It's a p.i.t.a.

You wouldn't even need to make the shower drain come up in the nearest wall so long as the developed length of the trap arm is no greater than 5ft.

Here is an example of something you could do.
Plumbing-Rough-in-For-Washing-Maching.jpg
 
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Finally got the drain finished. Now just have to run the vent. Thanks everybody for all your help

image.jpg
 

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