Dishwasher supply line connection help

[KevN]

Hi I had to replace a dishwasher and the water supply line was a 3/8" C braided hose from the sink supply line to the dishwasher. The replacement dishwasher used a larger solid copper pipe for the supply, guessing 1/2" or larger? Can I buy an adapter for the connection to my 3/8"C hose? Attaching the old and new connection types. The "new" dishwasher has brass fitting for that connection shown. Please help me not spend hours and multiple trips to the hardware store!!

 

[Twowaxhack]

Screw the stainless hose onto the dishwasher. That’s all you need to do.

Then monitor because it looks like it may have leaked in the past at the dishwasher connection

 

[KevN]

The threads and fitting are larger on the new one.

 

[Twowaxhack]

Yeah, you’re right

Remove the brass fitting that currently in your dishwasher now and replace it with this one.

It’ll fit your hose that you have now.

If you’d like you can buy a kit that contained this fitting snd a new stainless hose.

You will not use the nut that comes with this fitting. But leave it on the fitting while you install it to protect the threads.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...-Brass-Elbow-Adapter-Fitting-800859/207176871

 

[KevN]

Is the dishwasher default fitting 3/8" then? If i remove the fitting, it looks like I will have a female connection at the dishwasher, and my hose is also female, so won't I need a fitting with male connections on both sides?

 

[Twowaxhack]

The fitting I posted is what you need.

It does have male threads on each side. One side is iron pipe threads, it fits the dishwasher. The other side is compression threads, it fits your stainless hose.

3/8” ips male threads x 3/8” female compression with male threads on the outside. That’s what was usually found on older dishwashers.

New dishwashers have a garden hose thread connection.

 

[KevN]

Ok great thank you very much I appreciate your help!!!!!

 

[KevN]

Last question which side goes where? Do I remove the nut that's on there and that goes to the dishwasher side?

 

[Twowaxhack]

It’ll be self explanatory when you remove the old one and have the new one there to install.

You’ll need some Teflon tape or pipe dope.

You don’t need the nut and ferrule that comes with the new fitting. Its for tubing, you have a stainless hose connector. The nut is built onto it along with a rubber seal.

Where the nut is screwed on is where your stainless connector attaches.

 

[KevN]

Thx again!!

 

[havasu]

In the last 5 years, seems all dishwashers have decided to change the fittings to something new. Many members have had to deal with this as well as myself, when I installed mine a few years ago.

It is about as dumb as cell phones all having different connections to charge them. it is a real annoyance.

 

[House Doc]

In the last 5 years, seems all dishwashers have decided to change the fittings to something new. Many members have had to deal with this as well as myself, when I installed mine a few years ago.

It is about as dumb as cell phones all having different connections to charge them. it is a real annoyance.

I know. Some great mind developed the idea that a hose fitting was better than the iron pipe connection. Like the person that thought CPVC would make a great upgrade to inside home piping!

 

[Twowaxhack]

I connected a dishwasher a few weeks ago and the water connection was hose thread ON THE BACK OF THE UNIT.

If it leaks in the cabinet you can’t physically see the connection and to repair you would have to remove the dishwasher.

Designed by idiots.

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

I just replaced my two-year old GE Cafe series dishwasher with a new 800 series Bosch. About two years ago, I replaced a 20 year old GE "cheap as all get out and noisier than h*** with a Bosch Ascenta series; the Ascenta is Bosch's lowest price model. The 800, it's highest series. Though I didn't install it, I also had a Bosch dishwasher installed in 2000 during a kitchen renovation.

In the Ascenta of two years ago, the water fitting was on the front of the unit on the left side; uses a garden hose fitting. The electrical connection, hardwire only, was on the right side.
On the new 800 series I installed a couple of weeks ago, the water fitting was at the back of the dishwasher, also a garden hose fitting, and the power was via a proprietary plug/cord at the rear. It assumed, out of the box, you were plugging it into an outlet. You could, at extra cost, opt for the "direct wire" upgrade kit which was merely the same power cord with no plug, but pigtails on the end for a hard wire. I used a braided hose for the water connection; garden hose on the dishwasher end, and ⅜" to fit a standard stop valve on the other. It's 60" long, plenty of room for removal of the unit. There was an "extension" on the drain hose assembly, just like on the prior GE unit. I re-used the extension. Drain was on a high loop. No air gaps here.

Having just done this, after a dry fit, I can tell you that fully removing the dishwasher involves removing two screws, on on either side of the dishwasher into the frames of the adjacent cabinets, and pulling. I could have the entire unit out in a minute. Personally I don't think a rear connection is all that great, but if you had to change the hose on a front mount, you have to feed in from the stop in the back of the adjacent cabinet through a hole, then fish it forward. Front or rear mount of water or electricity? Each has its issues.

It's all a pain in the rear. But the Bosch dishwasher I had in my main kitchen from 2000 until I moved out in 2019 never needed a thing. Hoping for the same good luck with this Bosch.

What was far more annoying to me on both the Bosch and the GE was the very crude and difficult to adjust levelers. The Bosch, all plastic, simply didn't work properly. The GE, Metal, barely had enough head to grab with a wrench. Since the floor was dead-nuts level in both directions, I simply leveled it out of position and then slid it into place. Much easier.

[FWIW the control board on the GE Cafe stopped working; wouldn't recognize the door is closed...no it was NOT the switch]

 

[Twowaxhack]

It’s best to have the connections in the front for obvious reasons. It’s best to have space under the dishwasher to allow for the connections.

Anyone who installs and services them would agree that’s not on drugs.

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

Well, things are not always where you want them. Neither is much of anything. Don't like it? Write a letter. They are always saying, "we value your opinion", so give it to them.

A GE Cafe series, two years old that dies...well if all one did was GE dishwashers yeah I'd want the easiest install possible since I'd be working on the darn things an awful lot.
I'm banking on traditional Bosch reliability. (Yes you bet I gave it to GE customer service about the quality)

Anyone want any parts from the GE? Parting it out. Everything works but the control board!

 

[Twowaxhack]

Well, things are not always where you want them. Neither is much of anything. Don't like it? Write a letter. They are always saying, "we value your opinion", so give it to them.

A GE Cafe series, two years old that dies...well if all one did was GE dishwashers yeah I'd want the easiest install possible since I'd be working on the darn things an awful lot.
I'm banking on traditional Bosch reliability. (Yes you bet I gave it to GE customer service about the quality)

Anyone want any parts from the GE? Parting it out. Everything works but the control board!

I’m just stating what’s the easiest for the installer or service tech.

I make more money when things are more difficult so the homeowner is the one that’s paying more.

Time is money. When I decide I have more money than time, I’ll stop installing the poorly designed ones.

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

Mine is a current model Bosch. From a customer point of view (the installers point of view, frankly, is irrelevant; they do NOT have to live with it) overall, the brand is noted as the best dishwasher line available. Yes, it has, from some installer's point of view, a "poor design" with a water connection and an electrical connection in the back. But, If I can remove it completely in 60 seconds, exactly how much of a better design would a professional installer like? One that allows you to pull it out in 30 seconds?

I'm just going on a WAG here (that's wild a** guess) that the reason why these things are in the BACK of the dishwasher, is it ensures, 100%, that it MUST be installed with enough slack in the electrical line and water supply line so that one can indeed pull it out easily and completely with the lines attached. If the connections are in front it is quite possible that there won't be enough slack because you can make the connections with the unit in place. With connections in the back, you have to have the unit OUT in order to connect ensuring longer lines.

In my case of the replacement of the GE, I indeed didn't have enough slack in the electric line but did have enough on the water supply. On the Bosch now, I can slide the entire thing out quite easily for any kind of service or repair or replacement (in a minute)...which based on most experiences with Bosch, are things it may not need for a very long time.

Instead of being concerned with piddly things like where the water and electrical connections are, my concern as a homeowner and as one who has installed these is the mechanical installation, such as the leveling legs and how easy they are to set properly. More importantly, how is it affixed to the cabinets or the counter? Most dishwasher manufacturers have yet to figure out that solid surface counters have been pretty standard for more than 20 years and still provide only these little tabs to screw to the bottom of a laminate/wood countertop instead of a means to affix to cabinet framing on the sides.

To each their own.

 

[Twowaxhack]

The only reason people like bosch is that it’s quiet.

It’s nothing to do with where the connections are.

But since we’re on a plumbing forum I feel it’s relevant to say rear connections are stupid from an installer point of view.

With the water connection on the rear there’s a possibility to have a small leak and not know it until damage is done.

If it’s on the front of the unit it’s more likely to be found and it’s accessible to inspect at anytime.

Common sense is not so common

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

No, people do NOT only like Bosch because it's quiet. They like it because its reliable.

My GE Cafe, a piece of s*** that didn't last 2 years, was extremely quiet, just -2db "louder" than the Bosch. Both are essentially silent, quiet enough to run at any time. Want to make a loud dishwasher quiet? It's simply the insulation they place over it.

Leaks can and do happen on pumps, drains, fittings, and all kinds of other things on a dishwasher. The water connection is just one possible source of a leak. Use the right materials, connect it properly and you've done your job.

Having the connection at the front only allows you to check if the leak is at the water connection and nothing else. If you have a pool of water under your dishwasher you could have any number of issues.

And, oh by the way, you probably didn't know this...some Bosch dishwashers including my new 800 have a leak protection system that catches any leaks, detects them, and lets you know... to prevent the possibility of damage to a finish floor. What a novel concept! By the same engineers that added the connections in the rear!

If you like, just set your own rule that you will not install any dishwasher with the connections anywhere but the front. You get to pick and choose what you work on, right? Like I said at the beginning, easy-peasy.