I had the opposite problem as you Boba. I had lo-flow aerators and when I finally found some high ones, my life got much better; pressure was bad enough on my last home with a well/septic that lo flow was useless. I didn't need to save any water, what went down the drain eventually ended up back in the aquifer.
Surprised that they're built using this for new construction. Must have a reason they used this. I mean, this only saves the builders maybe $200.......
Builders will do ANYTHING to save a few pennies. In my new home built in Michigan in 1992, one of the typical things they did, for example, is run the outside electrical outlets downstream of the GFCI outlets located in bathrooms. So, they ran dozens upon dozens of extra feet of cable--with the associated labor--to save what amounted to maybe $30 on two dedicated GFCI outlets located outside. It was a joke amongst the neighbors that if they popped the GFCI while doing something outdoors, "Find which bathroom had the popped GFCI".
Here in NC, when the code was eliminated to require drip edges on roofing, they stopped using it...despite the fact that ALL roofing manufacturers recommend it, all associations recommend it, most codes require it, and some manufacturers require it for warranty. So you see new homes with broken shingles on the edges. Go figure. On a roofing system, the drip edge is the least costly component.
Given half an opportunity, builders here will put tank type water heaters IN THE ATTIC. Good luck replacing that in the future, or dealing with your insurance company when it leaks.
I was looking to build a new home here, and while homes in that subdivision were well past the $500K range, some near $1M, and natural gas available, one builder was installing ELECTRIC water heaters! Many homeowners or soon to be homeowners wouldn't even think to ask what kind of fuel is used. The bottom line is if you have natural gas available on your lot, USE IT FOR EVERYTHING that uses it. You don't put in an electric water heater, unless of course you are the builder wanting to save $500. My home built in 1992 had a power vent water heater, so the venting was simple PVC. Here, they "saved" all of $200 but spent it right back on a long vent run and another potentially troublesome roof penetration. Makes not a whit of sense.
The more you look, the more you'll find "best practices" and even common sense being shoved aside. As long as it lasts through the 1 year warranty, that's all most care about I'm afraid.