"Disc" Pull Type Shut Off Valve - OK to Keep Half Way Pulled?

Help Support Plumbing Forums:

Mitchell-DIY-Guy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2019
Messages
183
Reaction score
53
Location
North Carolina
That $17.00 is retail You can but your last stale 2 day old doughnut that a plumbing co is only paying 1/2 that price if not less if he buys in bulk
Then he is also saving money on man hours.
He saves 15 minutes per valve installed , In a 2 bath house that is 14 valve that is 3 man hours saved per building. if you do 200 buildings a year 600 man hours.
Yeah, yeah, yeah...if you look at everything as "how can I save" you set yourself up for trouble. Do you want to know how much in reality was saved with the [toxic] cheap drywall from China? Looks good from the start... Shall we talk about aluminum wiring? What about polybutylene piping? Yeah all of those "great ideas" were done ONLY for the builder or contractor or repair person, only to save money, and NOT AT ALL for those who have to live with it.

Perhaps I'm in a minority; when I build or repair or otherwise maintain something in my home, I ALWAYS ask the question "what do I when it fails?" and I always assume that I will be the next person working on the project. You learn very quickly that if you do something stupid to save a few bucks, it may very well come back and bite you.

But to each their own. If one likes the neat tidy look of a recessed stop for a toilet valve, well, go for it. I just see trouble waiting to happen with a wall repair--and if you don't have access to another shutoff, you may have to cap that off after you hack a hole in your wall and wait to get the repair parts.

No thank you--not for me!
 

Jeff Handy

Pro Handyman, NOT A Pro Plumber
Joined
Jul 5, 2019
Messages
1,788
Reaction score
318
Location
Chicago suburbs
Actually, for as annoying as those goofy valves seem to me, they are supposedly easy to repair.
You just pop off the escutcheon, then remove one screw which holds in a red plastic wedge on top, that holds the little brass valve in place.
Then the valve just pulls out of the supply line, the connection is made by internal friction with three o rings.

So you push in a new valve inside the female opening, put the retaining wedge back in, and that should do it.

Supposedly.
 

SHEPLMBR

not a Junior Member anymore!
Sponsor
Joined
Mar 9, 2016
Messages
878
Reaction score
173
Location
Augusta WV
In my present house, the main shutoff for all water is in a panel in the laundry room. There are no shutoffs in a basement since there isn't one; the water main comes right from the meter into the crawl space and directly to this access panel. So if one of mine starts to leak, well, yeah I have to shut the water off in order to replace it. The only other shutoff (aside from the fixture shutoffs under the sinks, at the toilets, and water heater) I've found is one that shuts off all of the outdoor faucets; this is in that same access panel.

In my former house, done with copper, and with a basement, I knew where the "risers" were in the basement and I did have more control over shutting off water JUST to the upstairs, for example. All of the first floor fixtures generally had some kind of shutoff in the basement that you could use without shutting off the entire house.
I have a contractor that buys the ones you mentioned for condo jobs. I cringe every time he places an order.
 
Top