Converting a basement sink (set-tub) into a clothes washer hookup?

[wpns]

The crew is coming next week to move my laundry room over to a 'basement' room, and they'll be putting a standard clothes washer box in the wall in place of where a sink used to be. Because the sink is under a window, they won't be able to move the piping up the wall, will it work to put the box below the window, or does it need to be higher? Since this is concrete, I'm not looking forward to moving it over, is there a better way?

Thanks!

 

[frontporch]

Is the wall concrete?
No idea about local codes but have you considered a standpipe external to the wall? You also have the option of a utility tub sink that the washer drains into.

 

[wpns]

Yes, the wall is concrete. I'm thinking about some cabinetry that would hide a standpipe, arguably easier than getting out the jackhammers...

 

[MicEd69]

That is an 1 1/2" drain, and a washing machine should have a 2" drain that meets certain criteria like the following. The 42" max standpipe may have a max of 30" in some areas.

 

[Twowaxhack]

This might be a 2” hub. If it is you could use a fitting saver tool to clean it out then install a 2” trap. However a 1.5” trap and drain may work even though it doesn’t meet current code typically. There are many 1.5” WM drains in use that work. 1.5” use to be standard.

 

[frontporch]

I am going to assume that a utility sink was there and removed. In my first house I had my washer drain into the utility tub. Do the codes say that is not ok?
Personally I love utility sinks but they are not for everybody

I would think the trend in washing machines with higher efficiency would be to minimize water use and the need for a larger drain

 

[MicEd69]

As wpns said that the laundry would be moving to the basement, and the picture is the location of the new laundry room, I'm thinking that was a bathroom sink.

But to answer your question, draining a washing machine into a utility sink is totally fine and is allowed by code.

And yes, new washing machines are designed to minimize water usage. However, they also have a very high discharge rate and thus the 2" standpipe and drain line is recommended and the plumbing codes have adopted that as the current requirement. And many 1 1/2" drains and standpipes still exist and work just fine. But sometimes a 1 1/2" drain does restrict flow to the point of problems with a new washer and has had to be replaced with a 2" drain and standpipe.

 

[wpns]

Sorry for the delay, the set-tub looked similar to the first picture. The pipe that goes into the wall is 1.89" OD which makes it 1.5", and the second picture is of the pipes when they removed some concrete after a termite infestation. Third and 4th pictures are outside where the pipe comes out after meeting the kitchen sink drain and where that dumps into the main line to the aerobic septic processor. Any serious issues with turning this sink drain into a clothes washer drain?

If I _need_ to I can break out the wall leading up to the kitchen sink and tie into that, but that's jackhammer and concrete work...

Thanks!

 

[MicEd69]

Twowaxhack was right that the hub showing in the wall is 2". So, using a socket saver, you can remove the 2"x1 1/2" bushing in the 90 and install a 2" washing machine riser, but it would have to be inside the room. You don't have the room to install a washing machine box under the window and still get the minimum required 18" standpipe.

You could move the box to the right of the window and cut the drain line so the box can be installed there.

I am assuming that there is a vent for the old sink to the right inside the wall, as the picture for drain line on the outside of the wall doesn't show one. And it appears that you have CPVC water lines. That may cause you problems either in your modifications, or in the future. Just something to consider.

 

[Twowaxhack]

Looks like the hot is cpvc and the cold is pvc.

I’d replace both. Just a suggestion.

The drain can most definitely be used as a washing machine drain. If you did want to add a vent if it’s not already vented, you could add one after the trap either inside or outside. Inside could be a studor vent or the outside could be an atmospheric vent.

 

[wpns]

Yes, hot is CPVC, cold is PVC, that was the state of the art 20 years ago here, and probably still is.

Replacing it would involve building a new house, it’s _all_ concrete.

I believe the kitchen sink drain on the floor above is vented, this trap wouldn’t have remained full of water if not, correct?

 

[CT18]

Yes, hot is CPVC, cold is PVC, that was the state of the art 20 years ago here, and probably still is.

Replacing it would involve building a new house, it’s _all_ concrete.

I believe the kitchen sink drain on the floor above is vented, this trap wouldn’t have remained full of water if not, correct?

The trap would still have water even if it weren't vented properly. If it were an S trap then it might get siphoned out occasionally. You could fill it with water and then release and see how the drain reacts. I have observed some that had vent issues gurgle and drain slowly

 

[MicEd69]

Yes, hot is CPVC, cold is PVC, that was the state of the art 20 years ago here, and probably still is.

Replacing it would involve building a new house, it’s _all_ concrete.

I believe the kitchen sink drain on the floor above is vented, this trap wouldn’t have remained full of water if not, correct?

If the kitchen sink drain meets the 2" horizontal line within 8 feet (IPC) or 5 feet (UPC). the basement sink/washing machine standpipe is wet vented through the drain line from the kitchen sink and its vent, assuming it is vented. I would expect it is.

To minimize concrete work, I think I would I go with a standpipe that is "freestanding" inside the room.