Connecting to an almost flush clay/ceramic inlet pipe

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Aceman

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Okay--so long story short septic tank pumped--septic tank person says baffle wall is eroded needs repair for $1,800. Seems high. I check and the other side of the tank has an outlet baffle made with PVC pipe and appears to go directly through the pipe as though the entire pipe was replaced with PVC (see picture). Gardner who I helped with legal issues for free wants to help me he is there and sees the open septic tank says he can install the PVC pipe gets down there knocks out the eroded baffle leaving the inlet pipe almost flush to the septic tank wall (its older and made of concrete). See pictures.

Anyway the issue now is connecting that inlet pipe to 4 inch PVC to make a new baffle like the other side. It appears the way people do it is to use a rubber 6 inch to 4.5 inch coupling but there isn't enough of the piple sticking out to put it around the pipe. So do we chip away the concrete around the pipe to get enough to "couple" and then fill it back in with quickcrete or something else? I get it the end of the pipe needs to be grinded down to be even all the ay around. Is there an "insert" to connect to the pipe. Solutions would be very welcome as this point.
 

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I got a "feeling" I'm going to have to dig up the other side of the pipe--cut it--remove the pipe from inside the tank--connect a PVC--and then run that through the tank, then seal it. That's probably what they did on the other side but that was installed before I moved into this house. Please tell me there is an easier way! :)
 
I would probably pack the connection with oakum then use hydraulic leak stop cement. Pack dirt really tight in the area.

The pvc will be a smaller outside diameter than the existing clay.

I doubt a pipe-tite connection would work. I doubt you could get a good seal to the tank with it. That’s what I would use if it was a new tank.
 
I would probably pack the connection with oakum then use hydraulic leak stop cement. Pack dirt really tight in the area.

The pvc will be a smaller outside diameter than the existing clay.

I doubt a pipe-tite connection would work. I doubt you could get a good seal to the tank with it. That’s what I would use if it was a new tank.
When you say “connection” how do you make the connection between CVC and clay pipe?
 
Yes, those have been outlawed in most places. You can use it if you want but it’s an inferior connection to the other I posted.
Oh Ok that's fine I could use the other one. But how do you connect it? Can I connect directly to that piece that's sticking out?
 
You’ll need to dig up the outside of the tank where the pipe penetrates the tank. Cut the clay pipe a few feet from the tank and replace that section with pvc. Install your baffle tee inside the tank.

So your repair coupling would be outside the tank.
 
I’m not sure what you’re asking.
Well in other words can I connect to that pipe sticking out without having to dig up the other side and cut it so it has al
You’ll need to dig up the outside of the tank where the pipe penetrates the tank. Cut the clay pipe a few feet from the tank and replace that section with pvc. Install your baffle tee inside the tank.

So your repair coupling would be outside the tank.
Okay that's what I thought.
 
Okay, so for anyone interested the answer to this question is actually pretty simple. There is a product made SPECIFICALLY for this purpose--its called "Extend and lock" that fits in any 4 inch diameter pipe--clay, cast iron, PVC. The product says you can put it in without cementing it in although I wouldn't do that--better to just cement it in to make sure.

https://www.amazon.com/PolyLok-Extend-Lok-Effluent-Filters/dp/B01H7N46JS
 
Okay, so for anyone interested the answer to this question is actually pretty simple. There is a product made SPECIFICALLY for this purpose--its called "Extend and lock" that fits in any 4 inch diameter pipe--clay, cast iron, PVC. The product says you can put it in without cementing it in although I wouldn't do that--better to just cement it in to make sure.

https://www.amazon.com/PolyLok-Extend-Lok-Effluent-Filters/dp/B01H7N46JS
That’s a big fail for a pro but perfect for homeowners and handyman type work.

Personally for my home, I’d dig it up and replace the section.

I’d also add a cleanout on the outside of the tank so I could monitor the discharge.

I would also install an outlet filter. Definitely an outlet filter.
 
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That’s a big fail for a pro but perfect for homeowners and handyman type work.

Personally for my home, I’d dig it up and replace the section.

I’d also add a cleanout on the outside of the tank so I could monitor the discharge.

I would also install an outlet filter. Definitely an outlet filter.

Yes I actually had a septic tank company come out and do the repair since I was uncomfortable with it. The guy said what you said there should be a filter on that outlet side--good guy--he said he could do it but I could save money by doing it myself--in fact he said there is a filter on Amazon you can buy (probably the same one you linked to) just cut the pipe near the joint sand it down to get rid of the roughness from the cut, and use PVC cement. He said just make sure its is approximately the same distance from the wall of the tank as the current one is--I guess there is a "sweet spot" as to how far from the tank wall it should be.
 
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