Can't remove brass tub spout adapter with set screw

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WiiGame

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I got mad about this one and probably got myself into trouble. (I knew I should have posted here before trying anything, but noooOOOOoooo....)

I'm replacing the tub spout (?obviously?). The black plastic rod/tube inside the old spout -- which screws onto the pictured adapter -- just won't come out of the old and very corroded (prob. 25yr old) spout.

And when shopping for a replacement spout, there are no assurances that the internals of said replacement spout will match in length and diameter and threading to correctly mate with this. In fact, the whole shopping process drove me to think that I had very little shot at success that way. At least with this ~2.5" nipple.

So, the sure thing seemed to be to change to a simple slip-on, and with that part en-route, I thought I could easily remove this adapter.

I got this set screw to move a few turns and to rise up somewhat -- with very much resistance -- until it stopped moving entirely due to now being stripped. And, no, the adapter won't come off in the current state ... though it does have play ~1/8" (each way) left & right, and less play forward & back. So it doesn't appear to be soldered on.

It order to get this set screw to move more -- mostly based on YouTube ideas and then existing forum-based advice -- I've tried:
  • WD-40
  • tapping a Torx-10 bit into it and trying to unscrew it
  • Dremel-grinding a flat-head screwdriver notch into the screw (apparently my bit is too thick to pull that off)
  • Dremel-grinding the whole adapter off (scary!)
  • propane-heating the adapter and trying to channel-wrench squeeze it into an egg shape that can slip off? so far, the adapter doesn't appear to respond to this and something here is giving off fumes
Given all that, what should I do with this next to most easily (and inexpensively) get this damn thing off?
Thanks! -- WG
 
Use the Dremel and cut a deep slit in it from front to back, almost all the way through. Then take a heavy duty flathead screwdriver and insert into the slit you cut and twist.

You could even use two screwdrivers and use both hands to twist.

The brass adapter will split and loosen up.

If it won’t split then cut a little deeper.
 
Damn ... another nifty tool I don't have ........... just ordered the EZ728-01 set for my "Dremel box" of goodies.
 

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So, I finally got the "damn thing off" (that's another story) and now -- of course -- I have a new problem.

Per these pics, it seems the idiot contractors who built this townhouse around '96 screwed that brass adapter on so tightly, they put a hole in the copper. This is visible in the blue circle of my 1st pic as a dark slit on the wall side of the divot -- which BTW looks like a "huge" divot to me for a 1/2" copper pipe ... though my pictured angle doesn't make that obvious.

At least this explains why the bottom-rear of the original spout was completely rotted out and ragged.

Q: What can I do about this, which will also still allow me to use the slip-on spout I bought (which requires 2-3")?

FYI: Wall to end of nipple is ~2-3/8". New wall plate to end of nipple looks like 2" exactly. So hopefully the new adapter with the new spout doesn't need to go back quite that far.

Thanks, all!
WG

Inked20220108_171928.jpg

Also included a pic of water running full blast, if that matters:
running20220108_172004.jpg
 
Solder a patch over the hole or solder a 1/2" C x MIP adapter after cutting to proper length.
Then use a spout with a range of depth adjustment that utilizes a male (1/2" mip) connection and an O ring seal
Twowax has shown one in another tub spout thread:
Delta Cassidy 6.5" is that particular model, but many mfrs make them.
Grohe or cheap from Pasco or even possibly a good hardware store.


1641689157481.png
 
Thanks! Obviously, "solder a patch over the hole" sounds like the best, quickest option for me of little experience. K.I.S.S., right? And this issue has the benefit of being in a horizontal pipe with a divot on top, which seems to handle any gravity-related challenges.

But if you all have any advice on specific equipment/supplies or any tips, esp. common things beginners do that I should avoid/watch out for, that would be really, really great, please. (Yeah, I looked through YouTube but can only really find help on soldering joints or temporarily repairs and none covering my type of issue/spot-soldering in any detail. I've picked up only a few basics so far.)
 
Being more of an electronics guy by nature, I initially thought this is my opportunity to final buy a soldering iron. And I did find references to "plumbing applications" for some of them (esp. the cordless ones, but I've got a plug nearby for this). But of course the YT videos on this topic are all about using flame.

But would an electric soldering iron work in my situation here (given that it's somewhat unique for a plumbing-soldering situation)?

And if a soldering iron would work here, is flux even necessary/useful?
 
It’s cheaper to just buy a plumbers torch.

Electric irons for pipe are expensive.
 
WiiGame said:
So, I finally got the "damn thing off" (that's another story) and now -- of course -- I have a new problem.

Per these pics, it seems the idiot contractors who built this townhouse around '96 screwed that brass adapter on so tightly, they put a hole in the copper. This is visible in the blue circle of my 1st pic as a dark slit on the wall side of the divot -- which BTW looks like a "huge" divot to me for a 1/2" copper pipe ... though my pictured angle doesn't make that obvious.

At least this explains why the bottom-rear of the original spout was completely rotted out and ragged.

Q: What can I do about this, which will also still allow me to use the slip-on spout I bought (which requires 2-3")?

FYI: Wall to end of nipple is ~2-3/8". New wall plate to end of nipple looks like 2" exactly. So hopefully the new adapter with the new spout doesn't need to go back quite that far.

Thanks, all!
WG

View attachment 33046

Also included a pic of water running full blast, if that matters:
View attachment 33047
Click to expand...
Sand it good., and solder a REPAIR coupling over it
 
MrInfoPhilly said:
Sand it good., and solder a REPAIR coupling over it
Click to expand...
Except I need to get a slip-on spout pretty darned close covering that area (I believe).
So then why not solder right into that dimple (without changing the size of the pipe at any point) and proceed as if no one ever damaged the pipe?
 
WiiGame said:
Except I need to get a slip-on spout pretty darned close covering that area (I believe).
So then why not solder right into that dimple (without changing the size of the pipe at any point) and proceed as if no one ever damaged the pipe?
Click to expand...
you can convert it to a IPS by adding a Male adapter on the end., then you just thread on a tub spout
 
WiiGame said:
But would an electric soldering iron work in my situation here (given that it's somewhat unique for a plumbing-soldering situation)?

And if a soldering iron would work here, is flux even necessary/useful?
Click to expand...
I have both a torch and a Weller 500W soldering gun that I've used for work on larger surfaces with more thermal "inertia" than a copper pipe and it worked out well. Flux, as you know, is a cleaner and acid core solder could be used rather than rosin core.
 
MrInfoPhilly said:
You won't have a chance of that pin hole solder failing if you add a coupling and then a male adapter.

Up to you.
Click to expand...
So, said another way: "Hey, noob [appropriate b/c that's what I am here], FYI sometimes pinhole soldering fails. Yes, that's a thing. It might seem simpler, but that's your 'why not.' "

Duty noted. Hey, soldering anything looks pretty darned permanent to me. :)

Though it would help to have a rough idea of how often/likely it is for pinhole soldering to fail, esp. considering my pic above -- just so I can better weigh: easiest/failure rate vs. a much more involved solution for me. I don't need this one to work "for all time." I understand there's a best-of-the-best way to do everything, but I'm not quite there on this one yet.

In any case, I'm only doing it for me (not a customer) so I'll probably go quick/easy/cheap first, monitor it, then see if I have to get more involved later. Of course, if failure rate is high (vs. there's a chance), then that's obviously not worth doing.
 
To put a bow on this one -- in case anyone in the future cares how this episode ended -- I called in the plumber shortly after my last message.

If memory serves, he cut into the wall behind (from the walk-in closet) and replaced the entire horizontal spout pipe. He even put on a spare spout he had from another job ... better than the replacement I had bought. One thing new he mentioned was the potential of melting away solder up the pipe by heating the spout pipe too much. Sounded reasonable.

Overall, a good job and probably the best approach for this for someone like me.

That said, since then, I noticed the handle (directly above this spout) drips onto the spout when flowing. But you have to stare at it to even notice, so I'm leaving that go for now.

Done.
 
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