Cant Find Cleanout Plug 60's Bath Sink P Trap

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If you have that design, which is likely, you can unscrew or carefully saw and peel away the old trap, leaving the threads of the nipple from the tee mostly undamaged.

Then screw on a slip joint trap adapter, then a new P trap kit.
 
so should I try to cut off a big piece of the flange to see if it is all threads going into the flared end of the trap....which would mean the trap is twisted/turned on. so then Id soak some liq-wrench/vibrate things a bit, wait a few days. then saw thru the trap at a spot gives me enough spin room to twist it off?

then I'll go with a 'modern' pvc setup. first thing, Ill need some type of adapter to go on the threaded wall fitting? one that lets me do 1 1/2" pvc pipe slip in/out to adjust distance from wall then pvc clamp/washer to hold it there. then a reducer washer to connect to the 1 1/4" tailpiece?

If what I have said sounds right, and nothing goes whacky, I think I can do this. not 1 2 3 fast, but do it. save a few buck, learn something, and feel good doing it myself
 
Why not try unscrewing it first?

You said that, "the bigger round one piece 'escutcheon' spins around behind the trap". So that sounds to me like squirting some penetrating oil at the end of that trap would find its way to the threads of the trap and may help to unscrew it.

But even if that escutcheon was over the trap, which I doubt, I would first try to unscrew the trap before cutting anything. If it moves, you should be able to remove it and the escutcheon will come right off. There's a good chance that either the trap will unscrew or the other end inside the wall will unscrew. You may not have to cut anything.

Of course it goes without saying that the trap has to disconnected from the sink end first.
 
Take a pair of tin snips and cut that escutcheon away from the wall so we can see how the trap is hooked up
 
For that matter, once you disconnect that trap from the sink, you may be able to pull it back from that escutcheon enough to see the threads.
 
think I'll do the pen-oil thing for coupla days, seeing how this is not a time emergency thing. then maybe even try to hacksaw a piece of the big flange off to see in there (no way tin snips could do it)

once disc from sink tailpiece, how you figure I might...."... be able to pull it back from that escutcheon..."...being screwed on, it cannot be pulled away.....
 
onefix said:
once disc from sink tailpiece, how you figure I might...."... be able to pull it back from that escutcheon..."...being screwed on, it cannot be pulled away.....
Click to expand...
Sometimes the pipe it is connected to in the wall can move slightly if it's not firmly secured to anything. Would only take an 1/8" or so of movement to expose those threads.
 
Im done, time for a pro, I wrecked things. weird house, built on slab, pipes in floor, but....ready?...the nipple encased in....looks like..... cement wall too? only pros around here probably know anything about this. trying to saw piece of flange off, guess I accidentally cut thru nipple...looks like a copper pipe...cant see any threads. think my epoxied cleanout pug held, but water gushes out at flange area. picture too dark at wall, but I could see it was copper.

started so simple, try to save $$, now end up a major $$$ project.
 

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If the cut you made in the copper stub from the wall is just a small cut near where the chrome starts, you are still fine.
Cut off the chrome piece, leaving as much as you can of the copper stub.

Then slip on the slip joint coupling that I posted here earlier, then a new trap kit slips inside that coupling.

Bingo, done, cheap.
 
"near where the chrome starts"?? you mean the very end of trap at the nipple? don't twist it off? I don't understand. looks like the copper nipple had a raised edge/bigger diameter right where end of trap is. plus with only 6 1/2" wall to center of tailpiece, coupling would take up too much of that, then trap wouldn't fit.

I cant see...or understand....a way out of this, made a mess.
 
The slip coupling is 3 inches long.
Make sure you get one like my picture from Amazon, there is almost no unnecessary spacer in the middle of it.
1.5 inches of that will be slipped over the copper stub.
That leaves about 1.5 inches sticking out.
The wall arm of the new trap will go inside the other 1.5 inch end.
You will have to shorten the wall arm as needed, with a hacksaw
You might need to get a 1-1/4 inch P trap kit to keep it a little more compact.
You would then need to replace one washer in the slip coupling with a 1-1/4 inch reducing washer.
 
Jeff Handy said:
The slip coupling is 3 inches long.
Make sure you get one like my picture from Amazon, there is almost no unnecessary spacer in the middle of it.
1.5 inches of that will be slipped over the copper stub.
That leaves about 1.5 inches sticking out.
The wall arm of the new trap will go inside the other 1.5 inch end.
You will have to shorten the wall arm as needed, with a hacksaw
You might need to get a 1-1/4 inch P trap kit to keep it a little more compact.
You would then need to replace one washer in the slip coupling with a 1-1/4 inch reducing washer.
Click to expand...


1 1/2” copper DWV and 1 1/2” tubular are not the same size. That coupling you posted won’t work.
 
Not to mention a bit tricky to tighten that slip nut 3" inside the wall.

If it is copper, could very well have an male NPT adapter on it.

Also, believe it may be tough to find a p-trap that requires less than 5-3/8" with a plain end for coupling fit-up. The majority of that coupling would have to be in the wall. I doubt a 1-1/4" p-trap is available with a laying dimension of as little as 3-1/2" to make space for the propose 3" half of that coupling.

In order to make it work within the 6-1/2" space would require a connection similar to what's there now. Sweated connection or screwed connection, so as to connect directly to the end of a trap. As I see it.

Not trying to find fault. Just trying to make sure it's doable.
 
If the slip coupling won’t fit nominal 1.5 inch copper, that’s one thing.
But I never described the coupling as being recessed into the wall, at all.
 
Jeff Handy said:
If the slip coupling won’t fit nominal 1.5 inch copper, that’s one thing.
But I never described the coupling as being recessed into the wall, at all.
Click to expand...
Sorry must have misinterpreted your post #53. Particularly since 6-1/2" - 3" coupling leaves only 3-1/2" for a trap. Don't think that's possible. That's why I thought you were thinking 1/2 of that coupling wouldn't count being in the wall.

On another note, I thought the O.D.'s of copper was 1/8" larger than the nominal pipe size. and DWV PVC was at 1.9".
Where do I find the O.D. of tubular?
 
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I will rephrase what I had in mind.

He cuts off the chrome part from the copper stub.
That should leave just about 1.5 inch copper stub length from wall to cut end of stub.

The fitting I described, even though it apparently won’t fit over the copper, is 3 inches long, almost 1.5 inches of it would have slipped over the copper, so the far slip nut is almost tight to the wall.
There is now a hollow opening in the coupling ready to accept almost 1.5 inches of the wall tube of a p trap.

The coupling would be projecting at most about 3.25 inches from the wall, could be made shorter by cutting off a little more of the copper stub.
And there is almost 1.5 inches there at the end, waiting for a wall arm to slip inside it.

If the coupling I suggested won’t fit, there is certainly another one made for this transition.
 
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