ARC
Member
Hi and thanks. I looked all over the internet but could not find my particular situation. I hope the answer will help others in the future too. Basically, can I change how/where the plumbing for a tub drain and overflow connect from the standard sideways "T" style?
So my situation is I have a set of double joists mostly not directly under a 2"x6" wall that has the CI stack. The outermost joist is directly in the way of the downspout of the overflow and the joists run along the short end of the tub. I have room otherwise for the rough-in (5") where the floor drain is. My basement is old and unfinished and all the plumbing runs below the joists so I have access. There is a 2"x4" subfloor brace but I can cut a gap in this if needed to get my a full 6.5" rough-in area, and if I turn the shoe 90˚ parallel to the joist before it heads downwards I for sure have enough room.
My question is can I connect the tub drain and the overflow separately to the 2" mainline that connects to the CI stack? Instead of doing the standard sideways "T" assembly one buys with the downward santee for the floor drain and overflow, I'd like to turn the flor drain 90˚ and run it down to below the joist level. I'd then run the overflow into the wall cavity which is 2"x 6". So the overflow would probably have a couple of 45˚s to run it over to the wall cavity, and then down. Then when they both are below the joists they will connect into the mainline going into the CI stack either separately or together with a combo. I should have enough room for the overflow to do the fitting and gluing since I have 2"x6" for the wall cavity as mentioned, and room for the drain rough-in. Also, should I still add slip nuts to both lines because it's best practice and I have access from the basement? How does this plumbing plan sound and is it a legit substitute?
I don't see why this should be an issue, but I am here to ask the hive mind what they think I am not considering. I don't want to cut into the joists, or furr out the wall if I can avoid this, and I like this tub which doesn't have an above ground rough-in option. I will be removing the stub in the picture. I can't find this situation anywhere on the internet where someone did this so what do you all think? Thanks.
So my situation is I have a set of double joists mostly not directly under a 2"x6" wall that has the CI stack. The outermost joist is directly in the way of the downspout of the overflow and the joists run along the short end of the tub. I have room otherwise for the rough-in (5") where the floor drain is. My basement is old and unfinished and all the plumbing runs below the joists so I have access. There is a 2"x4" subfloor brace but I can cut a gap in this if needed to get my a full 6.5" rough-in area, and if I turn the shoe 90˚ parallel to the joist before it heads downwards I for sure have enough room.
My question is can I connect the tub drain and the overflow separately to the 2" mainline that connects to the CI stack? Instead of doing the standard sideways "T" assembly one buys with the downward santee for the floor drain and overflow, I'd like to turn the flor drain 90˚ and run it down to below the joist level. I'd then run the overflow into the wall cavity which is 2"x 6". So the overflow would probably have a couple of 45˚s to run it over to the wall cavity, and then down. Then when they both are below the joists they will connect into the mainline going into the CI stack either separately or together with a combo. I should have enough room for the overflow to do the fitting and gluing since I have 2"x6" for the wall cavity as mentioned, and room for the drain rough-in. Also, should I still add slip nuts to both lines because it's best practice and I have access from the basement? How does this plumbing plan sound and is it a legit substitute?
I don't see why this should be an issue, but I am here to ask the hive mind what they think I am not considering. I don't want to cut into the joists, or furr out the wall if I can avoid this, and I like this tub which doesn't have an above ground rough-in option. I will be removing the stub in the picture. I can't find this situation anywhere on the internet where someone did this so what do you all think? Thanks.