Bradford white gas heater tripping GFI outlet

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Portcitygal

Portcitygal

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I now have it plugged into a heavy duty extension cord and plugged into the washer plug--not GFI plug--and it works fine. Plumber noticed that there is a drip leak from tub spout right above where the wires come out at the top and plug into the blower motor. He's looking into replacing blower motor or says I may have to get a new heater. What I don't understand is why would I need a new heater or new blower when it works perfectly when plugged into another outlet albeit it's not a GFI plug. Also, it heats the water too hot even though set to a lower temp. Any thoughts? Tub spout is being repaired to stop leak.
 
If its over heating it could be the gas control valve is not shutting off when its suppose to. Also look and see what
your setting is making sure its not to high. If the tank is less than 6 years old the parts would be under warranty
 
Regarding tripping the GFCI, you could be drawing too much current on the ground connection OR the GFCI itself could be bad. I am not sure how to really test the GFCI for correct operation and am unsure whether or not the test button fully tests the GFCI's operation.
 
An electrician I was working with told me he never wired an appliance with an electric motor, such as a washing machine, to a GFCI circuit, or plugged it in to a GFCI outlet. He said he gets calls from people every so often to come and check out why their GFCI has tripped when they started a washer or dryer.
 
Here's an interesting read on GFCI protectors put out by the CPSC (if you choose to believe them). GFCI protection is required in many places and, depending on the year of manufacture, may or may not be installed in your "hovel" including laundry room, garages, etc.

I'd say that it's okay and probably mandatory to install a GFCI where washing machines, refrigerators (when installed in a garage for instance), etc. are installed and if the GFCI is tripping when a device with a motor is plugged into it, there is a strong possibility that the device with the motor is acting up.

https://www.cpsc.gov/s3fs-public/099_0.pdf
 
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A GFI measures the current going to the device via the black (hot) wire side, and compares it to the current returning on the white wire. If they differ by even a very small amount the GFI will determine you have a ground fault and will trip. If the device is grounded and the current returns through the bare copper ground wire, it will still work when plugged into a non GFI outlet. But, it will trip when plugged into a GFI outlet. This suggests you have something in your water heater than is allowing current to bypass the white return wire circuit -- a ground in the device. It may be a wiring issue. For example the bare ground wire may be connected instead of the white wire. Or, moisture in the device is letting current go to ground.

You can test the GFI by just plugging in a working lamp or something simple to see if it stays powered up or trips.
 
I’d have an electrician remove the GFCI plug and install a regular plug and check everything out. Probably nuisance trips
 
As your water heater is in a place that is obviously a potentially wet location, a GFIC would be required by code. But so is your washing machine, yet it doesn't have one. And since 1987, every outlet in an unfinished basement is to be protected by a GFIC.

And as tailgunner said, GFICs have a life span of about 10 years. But I know of no one who replaces their GFICs on any regular basis.

As an engineer, this is one area where I think the NEC has not done a good job. Technology has improved and GFIC breakers are available which have a much greater lifespan, and which removes the electricity from the outlet at the main panel if a ground fault is detected. With a GFIC outlet, when working it does eliminate power to the device plugged in, but there is still power inside the outlet box itself.

So bottom line, assuming the location was originally equipped with a GFIC and was not added by a person as a replacement to a plug that was "grandfathered" under the code, then permanently replacing it with standard plug would not be per code and could cause liability/insurance issues should something bad happen. And you have already "tested" the water heater with the extension cord.
 
If you truly want to test a solution, I've seen extension cords with GFCIs built-in. Maybe that's worth a shot on a temporary basis. If it still pops the breaker on an extension cord based GFCI then the device you are using is leaking current.
 
I am confused ????? How is a ground fault tripping on a GAS water heater?

Bradford white gas heater tripping GFI outlet​

 
I don’t believe a GFCI is required for a water heater power vent.

Disposals
Dishwashers
120v water heaters

Are not required to have them either.
 
Even though it is not mandatory to wire the garbage disposal with GFCI protection, many garbage disposal manufacturers suggest it. While that is probably to avoid lawsuits, it is best practice. And since 1987, every outlet in an unfinished basement is to be protected by a GFIC per NEC. But as stated above, the lifespan of a GFIC is around 10 years, so even if you have one, that doesn't mean you are protected. The NEC has yet to address the service life of GFICs.
 
We had one that occasionally would trip feeding our clothes washing machine, I changed it and no more problems. We have another one that occasionally trips when I shut off a small fan. Some are more sensitive than others.
 
One thing I have learned to refuse to run on a gfci is my sump pump. I ran a dedicated circuit to a gfci in my basement. It tripped and it has been running for several pumps and many years through a different non gfi plug and an extension cord
 
frontporch said:
One thing I have learned to refuse to run on a gfci is my sump pump. I ran a dedicated circuit to a gfci in my basement. It tripped and it has been running for several pumps and many years through a different non gfi plug and an extension cord
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Sump pumps are exempt from the GFIC requirement. So are smoke detectors, LOL,
 
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