Best approach to this copper fitting replacement?

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infy

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Hey everyone- I'm in a bit of a pickle. I had someone come help me replace an old shower faucet. It was working but it just looked really bad. Unfortunately, the part was seized and the faucet was ripped off the junction.. or whatever that thing in the middle is called. Now the water has to stay off until this is resolved. So it's becoming urgent.

Looks like it's copper lines with fittings soldered on. I have two choices:
1. Cut the fittings off.
2. Heat the fittings up and attempt to unscrew them from the junction.

I'm leaning toward trying #2 first. It's possible the corrosion wouldn't let me unscrew the fitting from the junction anyway despite the solder. But it can't hurt to try?

#1 is less ideal to me because I'll lose some pipe length. Access isn't great to begin with.

The bigger issue I may be facing is.. The junction on the replacement faucet I purchased is much wider and hardly fits into the space I have to work with. Even less space to solder or access the pipes. So I need to find a fixture with a smaller junction. Original is 2.5" wide.

I'd appreciate any advice since I'm pretty new to this area of DIY. But I am definitely interested in learning.

I'm also completely open to a solderless solution. My goal is to just get water back on asap.

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frodo

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right here right now, over there later on.
so you can not solder..cut the valve out as shown, BUY A MOEN SHOWER VALVE
shower head first buy a 1/2'' brass shoulder nipple and a union install valve
then
use a brass thread x pex adapter on the hot and cold pipes
loop the pex from the hot pipe around the new valve and connect the hot line to the cold side of the new valve
do the same to the cold pipe,, loop it to the hot side of the valve
pull the cartridge, flip it 180 degrees. put it back,
the cartridge flip will make the hot water be on the left, as it should be

it is going to be a tight sob in that hole, this will work if you install smart and use your head

other option is call a plumberScreenshot_20211027-002044_Photos.jpg
 

infy

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I was planning on soldering but it sounds like you think that should be avoided? Is it because of the tight space?

Is there another name for a "union install valve"? I tried to google it but didn't really find anything specific.

PEX sounds like a good idea. I suppose I could use something like SharkBite on the copper lines to adapt. That will only leave the pipe going up as rigid. I'll need to figure out a good way to do the vertical alignment.
 

CT18

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If it were me i would go on the backside and cut in an access panel so i could get my hands in there. You have to unscrew the old diverter from the galvanized riser going to the shower head. Then cut the copper back and add couplings to pipe the new diverter in. You are going to have to screw the new diverter to the threaded shower riser or remove that piece going up to the shower head which i assume is going into a threaded wing elbow
 

havasu

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I cringe to think those Sharkbite fittings are going to be concealed within that wall. Make sure your insurance is up to date!
 

infy

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Here's the progress.. I know I'll get comments on the quality of work. But it is my first time with copper.

a couple of complications. First, the pipe cutter was walking a bit and left marks... so that probably won't seal well. I'm guessing I'll have to cut again. I improved my technique on the second cut but still not perfectly clean. I'm getting better.

Second.. the shower head pipe is completely frozen to the valve. The pipe is secured flush against the stud and won't move. There's no clearance for any fittings wider than the pipe.

I'm going to have to cut that galvanized pipe off.. I don't know what I'll do next.

Cutting an access panel from the other side is a big deal... its a textured wall.. on the other side is a bath tub.. that hole will add a ton more work. But may ultimately be unavoidable. But not there yet.

How do I connect the shower head to the new valve... with no clearance.. what a mess. Almost tempted to try an automotive rubber coolant hose and clamps. Then revisit this area in a bath remodel in a year or so.

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CT18

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Thats why i suggested access panel. You need to unscrew the old valve. I believe you have a dresser coupling. You can cut the riser and slide the dresser coupling on and the screw it onto a short nipple threaded into the new valve. No rubber hose with hose clamps. It is a tough little job to take on with limited plumbing experience. Sometimes it serves you better to call in the pros.
 

infy

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Yeah. But this is a bit time sensitive. I'm flying out tomorrow. Family has no water. Need to get this sorted today. A plumber will be days or weeks out.

At the moment I haven't been able to move the pipe enough to fit the dresser coupling. There's no clearance between the stud and pipe. They're joined somehow up top.

I *may* have room for a hose.... not sure yet. I'll try the dresser again.

Going to pick up metal cut blades for a jigsaw.
 

infy

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I would have to buy a Dremel. Jigsaw blade hopefully does the trick. I only need to make 1 cut.
 

SHEPLMBR

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If you are in a hurry and can't finish it before you leave, get some shark bite caps for the hot and cold lines.
 

infy

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If you are in a hurry and can't finish it before you leave, get some shark bite caps for the hot and cold lines.
That's not a bad idea.

The carbide jigsaw blade I picked up only made it through half of the pipe before it was done. I may have to rent something more heavy duty. I just picked up some hacksaw blades..
 

infy

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Almost ready to pressure test and install trim. I'm not sure about these shark fittings... can't really tell if they're fully secured. But I only used 2 so it's not too many connections to worry about.

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infy

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I'm listening. Are there specific concerns about the hose? The shower head is on a hose just above too.
 

infy

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I think I'm done. For now. I'll keep an eye on it. So far it's dry. No leaks. I'll check on it tomorrow.

I'll revisit this later in the bath remodel.

Thank you everyone for your help.

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