Bathroom sink drain replacement

[Soxfann18]

I am in the process of replacing my bathroom sink faucet and I am replacing the drain piece as well. Unfortunately I cannot remove the p-trap effectively because all the connections are glued. I've attached a picture of the setup. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[TomFOhio]

You would be better off to replace the faucet and the pop-up assembly and leave the drainage like it is. Like
you said you can't take the drain apart. You would have to cut into the wall to do it right.

 

[Mark.S]

If the new sink drain doesn’t line up with the existing you will have to open the wall for sure to reset the drain position. Depending on your experience level you may need to hire a plumber as you’ll probably have to cut into the vertical drain pipe inside the wall and replace the tee

 

[sawguy]

I think he's talking about removing the pop up assy. The tail piece will unscrew from the pop up body (usually) and drop down to remove the part attached to the bottom of the sink. Reverse procedure to re install.

 

[Jeff Handy]

The problem is that there is probably not enough play or wiggle room to get the old tailpiece and pop up out, or new stuff in, because the pipes are glued, and also very close to under the sink.

You could cut up the old drain and pop up with a sawzall, but I still don’t see a new drain assembly with pop and tailpiece being able to sneak into there.

Sawguy is right, maybe you could sneak in the tailpiece first, and tape it to the trap so it doesn’t drop in and become unreachable.
It also might need some cut off the bottom.
It could be just barely peeking out of the trap.
Then pull it up later, and screw it into the pop up.
If the new parts are all plastic, then no deal.

 

[Jeff Handy]

Quick and dirty.
You could cleanly saw through the sliver of pipe stub showing right after the 45 elbow at the wall.
Clean up any rough spots or burrs on both cut ends.
After installing new faucet drain, you could re-connect the cut pieces by using a 2 inch shielded coupling, fastened over the hubs.
Or just a 2 inch rubber coupling over the hubs.
Yes, I know it is not meant to work this way.

 

[Soxfann18]

I appreciate everyone's replies. I was going to keep the original drain piece after finding out how much work would be involved. But unfortunately I tossed the old pop-up assembly hardware (including the retaining nut for the pivot ball). I haven't been able to find a suitable replacement that fits. Shouldn't this drain piece disconnect at the point where the pop-up assembly attaches?

 

[sawguy]

Re read posts 4 & 5

 

[TomFOhio]

Can't tell on this one but alot of those desanko's have a stop in them and the tailpiece won't go through it.

 

[Soxfann18]

Is it possible to find a 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 rubber coupling that is less than the standard 3.5 inches in length? The coupling I have right now is too long with the room I have to work with.

 

[Jeff Handy]

You can shorten the coupling.
At least on one end.
No need to put the clamps in the intended location, they can move closer in.

I would use a shielded coupling, not just a rubber coupling, but do what you want.

I think you will need a 2 inch x 2 inch coupling, to fit over the hubs, unless you are able to really stretch out a 1 1/2 inch size.

 

[Jeff Handy]

I believe most 2 inch pipe size shielded couplings will be around 2.5 inches long, no matter what the specs say on sites like Home Depot.
They are much shorter than a typical black synthetic rubber coupling, in my experience.

You need to go up a size in diameter, because you will be clamping onto the hubs of two fittings, which are bigger than the named pipe size.

If this does not make sense, it will when you buy the wrong size, and have to return for what I said to buy.

FYI, sometimes it helps to file off any raised lettering on the hubs, to get a better seal.

Quick and dirty, if you don’t agree, no problem.

 

[Soxfann18]

I actually did purchase the 2 in coupling and there was an extra 0.5 inch gap at least. I was able to fit the 1.5 inch coupling on the fitting of the trap at least. I wasn't able to attach the other side because of the length.

The sizes make no sense from a layman's perspective. My pipe has a 1.5 inch ID but I wasn't sure how this translated to the coupling size. I thought the 2 in coupling made sense but it seems too large

 

[Jeff Handy]

Where are you putting the coupling?
Please explain exactly.

 

[Jeff Handy]

Pipe sizes are mostly named for the inner diameter.
But even that has exceptions.

And various materials with the same approximate I.D. can have very different. O.D.
Such as copper, sched 40 pvc, tubular pvc, galvanized steel, cast iron.

 

[Soxfann18]

So I cut through the PVC after the 45 angle bend coming from the wall and I was therefore able to replace the drainage piece with the piece that came with the faucet that I was originally replacing.

After reattaching the p-trap there wasn't a lot of room to reconnect both sides of the cut.

 

[Jeff Handy]

You cut it in totally the wrong place,
I never said to cut right through one of the elbows.
Go back and read post # 6.
I said to cut through the sliver of pipe stub, showing right after the elbow at the wall.

 

[Jeff Handy]

You still might be able to save it by putting a TWO INCH 90 degree black rubber elbow over what you just cut.
Clean up any burrs or rough spots on the cut edges.
And next time, pay attention, you were a mile off on what you did compared to my advice.

 

[Jeff Handy]

You also have to shove more of that new gray plastic tailpiece down into the trap adaptor under it.
If there is an internal stop that prevents that, you will have to neatly trim off the extra gray plastic, so your screwed up cut ends line up again.

 

[Jeff Handy]

2 in. x 2 in. PVC DWV 90-Degree Mechanical Flexible Elbow

https://www.homedepot.com/p/100372309