Bathroom pedestal sink, I need to get at the P trap

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Leo 'Gus' Gustafsson

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Albany, OR USA
On my pedestal sink there seems to be recess relief for bolts. I can't get an eyeball on them so I'm going to try my camera tomorrow. I've got a P trap to clean out and there's not enough clearance for me to work with the pedestal in place. I have scrap 2x4 so that's no biggie to support the sink but does anyone know if it's a no. 2 phillips that would hold this pedestal to the floor? Any other tricks that I should be aware of? I've done this only once before on a cabinet sink, a dangsight easier it seems
 
show us some pics, the pedestals i that i have installed did not have a way to secure to the floor,with the weight/pressure of the bowl it shouldn't move to easily, that way you could support it with a 2 by 4 and move the pedestal if you couldn't access the trap if you had to snake i have also seen the bowl/pedestal caulked together
 
There are little wrenches that most plumbers have to get at the tight nuts on pedestals. This makes it possible, if Murphy isn't around, to keep the pedestal in place for p-trap work.
They come both in 1.25" and 1.5" sizes.
I HATE pedestals.
1600969678875.png
 
If you can use a snake, you may have to unscrew the popup lever to remove the stopper, try that instead of fooling with the pedestal. There are too many potential problems trying to remove it.
I even had 1 that they tiled around the pedestal. Luckily I was installing a vanity over the hole.
 
Thanks for your fast responses fellows. Going to get it together to take some photos and see what I can do. I'll post a little later on what I find. Thanks again!
 
A Zipit plastic drain cleaning tool should get down there easily.

On a pedestal sink, it might reach all the way to the tee at the vent, which often clogs up too.

You just shove it down the drain, usually you can even leave the popup stopper in place.

Costs only a few dollars, and pulls out hair and junk to about two feet down the drain.

Look on Youtube for vids about how to use it.
 
I was able to remove the pedestal, those recesses had me fooled for a

Recessed Hole.jpg

bit but I took a razor knife around the base and it slid right out.

Pedestal.jpg

I ran a snake down the line it it was hair and sludge. Another issue is a leak at the P trap.

Old P trap.jpg

I cut the pipe extension and tried to install a new 180. The trouble I'm having now is the drain from the wall and the sink drain are misaligned by a P.O.

New P trap misaligned.jpg

I can't seem to get the lower exit pipe to thread on the wall drain. I know these things are a standard but so far no luck. A few ideas are if I could find a slightly longer 180, that'd do it. Also there is a small difference between the old coupling and the new, one extra ring of threads in the old coupling it threads on easily, the new one just doesn't have that extra ring. Other than that I may install a flexi line from the bottom of the sink but it's kinda cheesy. Maybe I need to go to a plumber supply rather than Lowes.
 
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Looks like an abs trap glued to pvc, does that even work well?

Maybe it is black pvc?

Get rid of that trap, glue on a pvc trap adapter at the wall, then put on a tubular p trap, in either pvc or chrome brass.

A tubular trap will give you more adjustability, as the trap arm can slide into or out of the trap adapter as needed, to fit properly.
 
Actually, the trap kinda looks like it is just caulked onto the pvc with a hail Mary connection.
 
Maybe it is glued ok, maybe I am seeing paint on it or something, that makes the joint look weird.
 
They seem to have used another color of PVC adhesive, I normally go with color correct, a holdover from automotive wiring. I seem to recall a multi jointed type of pipe that I've seen used on a counter type bathroom sink but I don't know what they're called in the industry. Do you know what I'm talking about Jeff?
 
You should be ok with cutting off that black trap, as long as you have about 3/4 inch of clean white pvc left sticking out of the wall.
Or enlarge that hole in the wall if needed to reach more of that horizontal drain pipe
Then glue on a trap adapter, which is a compression type fitting that will grab the arm of the new p trap that will be inserted through it.

Then attach a new p trap like the chrome one you posted earlier.
Or white pvc.
That is called a slip joint p trap.
It is know as tubular, which is a smaller, thinner type of plastic than what you have now.

The horizontal arm of the p trap will fit inside that pvc pipe in the wall, and can slide in or out for some adjustment of length, to make things line up.

Your tailpiece from the sink is pbly 1 1/4, so get a trap in that size.

The trap adapter will be 1 1/2, but you can change out the slip joint washer for a 1 1/4 reducing washer, which might come with it, or just buy one.
 
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Right on! Thanks so much Jeff!
Another idea I had when I was getting up this morning was since I'm only dealing with 1 or 2 mm to reach that trap why not use two 90* with a stub of pipe between and make my own P trap?

Edit: Just came from a plumbing store, the pipe is manufactured by Canplas, a Canadian Co. it turns out their their thread pitch on the coupler is different than SAE. No wonder I couldn't get it to thread on.

https://www.canplas.com/plumbing/ct_product/103211n/
I have one on the way. Going to give it one last go before I open the wall up.
 
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