Hello to all, my first post and hope I the right place.
We had a sewage ejector pump installed when we had the house built (12 years ago) for a future bathroom in the sub-cellar. Head is about 10-12 feet, piping is 3". Current pump is a Zoeller and current check valve is a 3" Zoeller cast iron installed vertically right above cover. Currently only a plastic slap sink has been connected to it. And no issue other than a "large" bang after it finishes pumping and if feels like it will break the pvc (or something) one day if it had regular use.
Now that I have time to start working on the sub-cellar, need to tackle the bathroom and summer kitchen while a mess can be made (open up concrete floor etc), re-do some of the PVC work and possible move the basin location (a bit). We will have a kitchen sink, and 3/4 bath connected to this sewage pump.
So my first question is can PVC check values be used for sewage pump applications, like this one "Sanking SK-SC-030"? Any benefit with using a cast iron versus PVC? e.g. the Zoeller never needs replacing?
My second question is it better to have a ball valve with unions built-in or seperate? (since they never installed a ball valve; thankfully no actual bathroom was installed so no sewage in the lines), and which do you recommend.
I found the following that seemed interesting but would have to add union separately: Van Enterprises 3" PRO SERIES- 2PC PVC Ball Valve with STAINLESS STEEL Handle and CHROMIUM ABS Ball
ERA Sch 80 3 Inch True Union Ball Valve (Are these all PVC handles reliable).
Recommendations are appreciated.
We had a sewage ejector pump installed when we had the house built (12 years ago) for a future bathroom in the sub-cellar. Head is about 10-12 feet, piping is 3". Current pump is a Zoeller and current check valve is a 3" Zoeller cast iron installed vertically right above cover. Currently only a plastic slap sink has been connected to it. And no issue other than a "large" bang after it finishes pumping and if feels like it will break the pvc (or something) one day if it had regular use.
Now that I have time to start working on the sub-cellar, need to tackle the bathroom and summer kitchen while a mess can be made (open up concrete floor etc), re-do some of the PVC work and possible move the basin location (a bit). We will have a kitchen sink, and 3/4 bath connected to this sewage pump.
So my first question is can PVC check values be used for sewage pump applications, like this one "Sanking SK-SC-030"? Any benefit with using a cast iron versus PVC? e.g. the Zoeller never needs replacing?
My second question is it better to have a ball valve with unions built-in or seperate? (since they never installed a ball valve; thankfully no actual bathroom was installed so no sewage in the lines), and which do you recommend.
I found the following that seemed interesting but would have to add union separately: Van Enterprises 3" PRO SERIES- 2PC PVC Ball Valve with STAINLESS STEEL Handle and CHROMIUM ABS Ball
ERA Sch 80 3 Inch True Union Ball Valve (Are these all PVC handles reliable).
Recommendations are appreciated.
