3 Outlet (remodel) Valve Upgrade

[Ars Glonalin]

Hi all, I'm remodeling the shower plumbing for SWMBO.
She does not want tile work (or stone) or any changes to the bath / shower side.

Tearing out the wall opposite the valve side is fine.
I saw a very cool looking valve / trim that seems to meet all the needs.

I'm looking into a 3-outlet shower. Apparently, 2 or 3, even 4 (up to 6) can be driven at once by some valves.
That type seems to want 3/4" pipe for H & C inlets (supply). One I saw, which may not be on the market yet,
had independent flow + on/off controls in various models of 2, 3, 4 up to 6 outlets.
I want to plumb a handshower, showerhead and default to the tub spout.
One type promised up tp 8.5 gpm, single knob to regulate thermostatic temperature setting,
and on/offs for each outlet, with temperature setting retained.

It also claimed, though it was thermo/mechanical (vs 3x the price for electronic), that it could be set
so only one outlet is on at a time. Top it off with a finish-trim wallplate that will cover a standard 8" 3-handle valve-set.
This sounds perfect, if a little pricey
Kohler - Anthem. Is this one a gimmick, or solid hardware? (*5 to 9 week lead time)

Without a lot of additional work, I can't get a 3/4" supply to the valve, so my installation
would have to step up from 1/2" lines, and I would make the setting for only one outlet at a time.
Will this still work installed this way? Anyone know of other valves that match these reqs:
- at least 11 x 3" finish trim
- control 3 outlets, at least centralize diverters to one valve
- thermostatic control
- reliable
- warranty + parts available
- max tub spout below is centered and 4 1/2" oc

 

[Ars Glonalin]

I should clarify that I will be adding a rail for the handshower and it will get an outlet of its own, new tubspout, drain lever and popup if possible.

 

[Twowaxhack]

You may have trouble getting a tub spout to fit below a remodel trim plate to cover the three faucet holes in the tile when you install a new valve.

What does SWMBO mean ?

 

[Twowaxhack]

I like the looks of the Anthem but after the warranty expires the solenoids will likely cost as much or more as their other electronic solenoids cost, which is around $300 to stop a drip.....

So beware it not only has a high initial cost to purchase, it doesn’t get any better when it comes to repair it.

Have fun with it !

 

[Ars Glonalin]

She Who Must Be Obeyed: from "Rumpole Of The Bailey" used to be used a lot, years ago on the 'net, haha

They make an electronic/digital valve, and a thermostatic/mechanical valve though most places and literature you have to dig for the latter. I'll get that reference and post it. Out of my pocket, I might go for the $400 valveset and $300 trim set, it looks slick, but has to keep working at that price. The digital valve mixes electricity and plumbing...and goes for $1200 or $1500 for just the back-end (valve), carumba!

 

[breplum]

Hey, Anthem line comes with a full "One Year Warranty". That pretty much says all you need to know when putting Kohler lipstick on that pig.

 

[GReynolds929]

Moen‘s new M-Core product is interesting. Might have something that fits your needs.

 

[Ars Glonalin]

Just to follow up. Used a Kohler 3-way thermostatic-valve faucet. It’s pretty cool: the 3 buttons pop out, each opening flow for, in this case, spout, rain-head or hand-shower. The outlets can be used in any combination (any 1, 2 or all 3.) I think the spout is pretty ugly; hope to find a nicer one and replace it.

She hasn’t picked the colors yet, so new paint is still to come, but all is patched and primed. I used PEX, both straight and curved for the hookups (my most advanced PEX job yet) with SS crimp connectors. They allowed using one tool for either size of tube that I used — water inlets were 3/4”, and fittings (outlets) were 1/2” PEX. The smaller size tube was easily adapted to the faucet body using all brass (potable) fittings; smaller diameter tube carries sufficient water flow, but takes a little less time to fill with correct temperature water, especially for the shower riser.

To install the valve, I marked out the right size rectangle from the instructions. Then I drilled just inside each corner with a masonry bit, through the tile, cement backer (~1”+ thick), and the embedded steel mesh. On a lark I’d bought a Diablo ‘Demon’ carbide demolition blade for my jab-saw. That blade cut the tile, cement and mesh like buttah! The demo- blade also worked great for nail-embedded wood, and there was some of that that needed adjustment and some to replace.

I had masked the tub area with cardboard; behind the partition I used newspaper. Taped both to the wall to hold them. This made cleanup quick, which really mattered because as slow as I went, it raised a bit of dust. I’ll post a picture of the installed valve from the rear, and the hole that was cut.

 

[breplum]

Great narrative, nice job! You really took the challenge and went whole hog commitment.

 

[Ars Glonalin]

Thanks for that. These were totally outside my previous plumbing experience, and often took some sitting and thinking to get to the next step. Here’s the installation hole and the blades…still looking for a pic from the back side.

Comic note: I put tape over the hookups to keep dust out of the supply pipes. Failed to remove it on the cold side. Lots of gyrations ensued trying to figure why the valve was broken!
ALWAYS IDIOT CHECK ANY PROBLEM FIRST!

 

[TomFOhio]

Can you show a picture of the back of the faucet.

 

[Ars Glonalin]

I didn’t have many pics of the rear of the faucet, but this is how it looked attached to the supporting studs. Not much to see. The faucet was encased in grey styrofoam-like material which remained on and covering the rear. It had attachment brackets installed already which I attached to a piece of 2x6 board, which I then attached to the studs: very solid using a few 3 1/2” deck screws.

 

[Ars Glonalin]

I used a few 1 1/2” screws to attach the valve assembly to the support board,

 

[Ars Glonalin]

I had to chop the board up a little to get access to make the final hookups. All the extra parts of the wedges and shims were cut away afterward. Also a couple of shots of the front of the valve showing the trim-kit partially installed. It had a lot of small pieces, all put together in a finicky and precise order. Works very well though….

 

[Twowaxhack]

Awesome job cutting that tile and mounting the valve. Increasing the water pipe size probably wasn’t necessary but it’s ok that you did it.

 

[breplum]

So well executed.
Big fan of isolation valves. We add them on every apartment remodel we get our hands on.