1960s Outdoor Faucet Replacement?

[steve40]

Hi There,

I'm new to the forum. I can usually handle basic plumbing issues myself, but this one has me stumped, so I'm hoping for some insight.

I need to replace this outdoor faucet. It's 52 years old, and the cartridge is no longer in production. Existing cartridge is broken beyond repair, so unfortunately I need to replace the whole thing.

Anyway, it's threaded into a flange that's screwed to the wall under the stucco. I had assumed it would simply unscrew from the flange, however it starts building up tension after 1/8 of a turn. Not stiff threads, it feels like it wants to spring back to it's original position. Is it safe to assume that this faucet is either soldered or threaded onto the pipe behind the flange, and that the flange is simply there to secure it to the wall? If so, any idea on how to replace it? The pipe is not accessible without cutting holes in the wall. Rather not do that, with the house being for sale, but it would also be preferable to sell it with a working faucet. Hopefully I haven't damage anything inside the wall already...

Any input is appreciated,
Thanks!
Steve

 

[frodo]

I do not see any solder
it looks like a threaded connection

use heat,

 

[Diehard]

Before you start playing with fire you may want to try the following in that order...

Penetrating oil, sharp raps with hammer, more oil, let it sit 20 minutes or so, tap with hammer again, try tightening a bit first(Clockwise)), then try loosening(counter clockwise). Rap end of wrench with hammer before trying to use brute force.

Small effort to avoid fire extinguisher and water hose.

 

[steve40]

Thanks guys! I managed to pull it out enough to get a bit of a peak behind the flange. It looks like it's the kind that's soldered on, similar to the picture below, but with male threads on the outside to attach the flange. It's so old that I can't find any exact examples. However this explains why it wants to spring back to it's original position. I'm thinking this one is above my pay grade...

 

[Diehard]

So you can't see the pipe from inside?

 

[steve40]

So you can't see the pipe from inside?

No, not without cutting a hole in the bedroom wall.

 

[frodo]

post a picture of the stem and handle

 

[steve40]

post a picture of the stem and handle

Here's what I have. It's an old Wallaceburg. The company that bought them says they don't make this type any more. The guy at the plumbing store busted the handle trying to get it off, otherwise I'd see if changing the washer would to the trick. Might do that anyway, and just control it from the basement shutoff, so I can at least water my garden.

 

[frodo]

that is not a frost proof hose bib?
that is a regular hose bib stem?
if you have the handle, it can be silver soldered back on as a repair...[maybe]
or..cut the handle off of another bib and use it

will you do something else for me?
remove the 2 screws holding the flange to the structure
lets see if this thing is loose enough to get a peaky boo at it

 

[steve40]

that is not a frost proof hose bib?
that is a regular hose bib stem?
if you have the handle, it can be silver soldered back on as a repair...[maybe]
or..cut the handle off of another bib and use it

will you do something else for me?
remove the 2 screws holding the flange to the structure
lets see if this thing is loose enough to get a peaky boo at it

Correct. I don't think the frost proof ones even existed when the house was built. I had a look behind the flange yesterday. Could only get it out about an inch, but the pipe is definitely soldered directly to the faucet. I'll see if I can get a picture tomorrow in the daylight.

 

[frodo]

Correct. I don't think the frost proof ones even existed when the house was built. I had a look behind the flange yesterday. Could only get it out about an inch, but the pipe is definitely soldered directly to the faucet. I'll see if I can get a picture tomorrow in the daylight.

ok

 

[SGkent]

If code in your area allows it they make plastic boxes that can be caulked and screwed to the stucco that recess for the faucet to sit in. Commercial ones even have doors that can be locked.

 

[steve40]

ok

Kinda hard to see, but it's the best shot I can get with the space available. Not sure there's even room to solder a new faucet on there... though perhaps if the flange were to be left off?

 

[House Doc]

I can't see what everybody else is seeing... This can't be a frost-free faucet, it's a bent configuration. All frost-free spigots that I've seen have a straight line from handle to faucet seat 8-12" inside the wall. I've worked 30+years in Chicago and have replaced MANY before moving to California.
Don't know what the "square drive" screws are attached to but those are pipe threads that I see so it should be able to be unthreaded and a new faucet (boiler drain) installed. There are "flats" on the sides of the existing faucet. Granted it will probably be a bear to remove something that may be close to 100 yrs old, but some PB Blaster, or quality penetrating oil, a few taps, and TIME it should come out. Give it plenty of time, and a couple of applications.
If you start to turn it and the part it's screwed into turns you will have to cut into the wall (from inside. Much easier to repair interior walls that exterior.)

I don't think I've ever seen a stucco home in a cold climate area. Stucco usually doesn't do well in freeze/thaw climates.

 

[Diehard]

It's not.
I believe one person asked if it was.

Edit: Many hose bibs were made to be threaded OR soldered.

 

[SGkent]

I am not there but to me it looks like there is some kind of a bolt on flange attached to an iron pipe and the faucet is threaded into that. The OP said it wound up. That is a sign to me that the OP did not have a pipe wrench on the flange to counter the force from trying to unscrew the faucet - and it is a good thing he stopped. Most likely a pipewrench on the flange and a pipewrench on the faucet will undo it.

 

[Diehard]

I thought the same until OP confirmed it was soldered in post #4 above.

 

[frodo]

well.
black steel pipe is against every code that was ever written
and no way in hell it would have lasted 50 years. so i am ruling out that

galvanized pipe is a different color, thats out

that pipe is a copper pipe, it is black because of patina

it is soldered to a flange that is screwed to the house with a hose bib screwed into the flange