1955 Toilet needs cleaning

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oldhouseguy

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Hello - My toilet is from 1955 and works fine but I would like it to last as long as it can as an antique.

The current problem is that it has lime or calcium deposits - actually I don't even know what they are but the toilet looks brand new until you look under the rim. There you see rust and white calcium like roughness on the small holes all around the rim of the bowl which I don't know how to get off.

I would like to do a major cleaning that will extend the life of the toilet. There are a lot of products on the market but I don't have faith in them. I thought I should ask the pros here and do it right.

Thanks in advance!
Ken
 
I've always used CLR (the chemical found at most big box stores) and a pumice stone (also found at most big box stores) and both will eliminate anything on a toilet rim.
 
I would imaging there is a lot of rust and lime inside the holes in the bowl where the water flushes out. Is there a way to clean that out - to prolong the life of the toilet?

Do I have to be careful with the pumice so it doesn't scratch the surface?

Thanks!
 
If the porcelain is still intact with a good glaze on it, you should have no problems, since the pumice is softer than the glaze. I'll throw a disclaimer that I've never had any scratching occur while using it, but I guess an advisal to test in an inconspicuous area would be in order.
 
Well the toilet came out pretty clean using CLR and pumice stone.

I contacted CLR and they told me to drain the tank, tape up the holes under the rim, and pour 5 oz of the stuff under the flap in the tank to remove the lime. I used duct tape but can't get it to stick. Any suggestions?
 
Duct tame won't stick unless you dry it completely, and maybe use a hair dryer to ensure sticking. I myself don't like that idea because the CLR will degrade your rubber gaskets....which is counterproductive to saving the antique.
 
Yes - they said to make sure I carefully pour it into the hole under the flap and not get it inside the bowl. I'm just afraid that after a while the holes will clog from the inside even though the outside is clean.
 
OK, I gotcha. I didn't read your first post correctly. You can do what they recommended, but again, unless all of the water has been removed, the tape won't stick. Do you have access to compressed air? If so, blow the heck out of any residual water behind the holes in the rim, then use a hair dryer to dry the water completely. Please understand that you will be close to water and a possible shock hazard, so if you don't understand the potential danger, just allow the tank to air dry for a few days, then a quick wipe with rubbing alcohol and the duct tape should stick.
 
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