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The stop is typically in the knob. Did you take the knob off when installing it? And possibly put it back on upside down - or turn the stem past the stop with the knob off?

It appears that the red tube should contain a wire. When you push the handle the wire is pulled up about an inch out of the tube. Presumably the wire is attached to the equivalent of a flapper in the flush valve, so that pulling it up causes the flush. Is the wire broken?

Could be an extension - part of a deep rough-in kit used when the valve is too far back in the wall to attach the cartridge and fixture directly.

Why are you installing two gauges? Do you expect there to be a difference? I would expect the static pressure and flow rate to be the same on both sides.

They spray out water to release the pressure. Their purpose is not freeze protection but to prevent possibly contaminated water from backing up into your house water supply. As SHEPLMBR said, they are required by code in many places.

YMMV, but I tried a toe operated one, and found it very slow to drain. The gap under the rubber stopper was too small. Not really a problem for a tub but when used as a shower, the water would back up.

Contact the retailer or manufacturer. I know that a few years ago there was a bad batch of T-adaptors with that problem. The one on the right below is one of the bad ones.

I don't know how common it was elsewhere, but in the subdivision I lived in (house built in 1983) supply piping was galvanized. Since I moved, I have heard from former neighbors that they had to re-pipe their houses due to pinhole leaks.

OP indicates piping issues, not fixtures. Galvanized was used in Houston area in that time frame. I've heard of some now developing numerous pinhole leaks, requiring the whole house to be repiped. Not sure if its related to water quality, pipe quality, or just natural lifespan of galvanized...

You need a wiring diagram to know for sure. Usually the top float is for the high-water alarm, the 2nd float is the override float, and the bottom float is timer-driven so that it runs only at night. Is there a clock/timer in the control box? Is it working? There is probably a switch on it...

Here's a more basic explanation. The pressure switch is usually set to turn on the pump at 40 PSI and shut off the pump at 60 PSI. Your pressure tank is pressurized to a certain PSI to maintain pressure in the system. Your tank pressure should be a bit below the 40 PSI (like 38 PSI). If the...

My experience with a 120V 25A undersink unit is that it provides a trickle of hot water - any higher volume is lukewarm at best.

I have an aerobic system also. I can only tell you my experience, which is that no matter how many tabs I added, they all dissolved within a week or two. I had to add a tab each week. So I had a liquid chlorinator installed. I now add a gallon of bleach every two months.

That makes it a double pole breaker. Either wire to ground will be 120 volts, but the voltage between the wires is 240 volts. The wires should be black and red, not black and white. Is the white one at least wrapped with black (or red) tape at the end?

I have also been told I have manganese in my well water. It's only visible if I get air in the system, when i see the black slimy stuff in my sink or tub. Like most things, manganese is very small amounts is beneficial (actually essential). It is not harmful to health in drinking water until...

The drain hose from the dishwasher should loop up to the top of the sink cabinet before being connected to the disposal. Best to attach it to keep it from falling down.

I have an aerobic septic system. The high water alarm went off this evening. I turned the pump on (it normally runs only after midnight) and the sprinklers cleared out the excess water, but I know I haven't used enough water today to fill the tank, so it must be rainwater getting into the...

You'll probably need to use a pliers or basin wrench under the sink to hold it steady. And you may just need to replace an oring on the stem.

I have the Oatey Silicone Grease from Lowe's - part number #30219. The back of the package says "contains no petroleum additives and is recommended as a lubricant for rubber and plastic parts". Don't know why the website says it's petroleum based.

My finger works best (wear a tight-fitting disposable glove if you like). Dip your finger in water for latex caulk. Mineral spirits works better for silicone.