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OMG!

That Goulds pump is a one horse and should be capable of roughly 18 gpm at 30 psi. I'm getting a headache looking at all those tee's, elbows and ball valves. If you want a reliable quality bladder tank for that pump. Get a WX 202 Well X Trol or larger.

That duct tape probably isn't the most sanitary fix for that moth eaten casing. You might want to take Valveman's advice.

Not knowing what kind of pitless you have, it would be hard to tell you how to fix the problem. We use epoxy to plug the holes in the well seal here in Florida and used to epoxy the spools in the Whitewater Pitless adaptors in Michigan years ago. The idea is to first thread the wires through...

White is generally an indication of calcium and magnesium (hardness). Are you sure your softener is working? Is it using salt? Contrary to popular belief, you can get along just fine without those under sink filters.

There is a PVC cement that is for just your situation. In the industry it's called "Blue Glue". It works under water. I'm not real sure what using epoxy on PVC will do, but it's definitely not the approved method. You should also use white PVC not Grey. Grey is an electrical pipe.

I don't see a drip in the pictures, but I only see teflon tape on one of the fittings.

I can tell you from experience that getting rid of 10 ppm of iron is going to be a big deal. The one thing I can recommend is using a head that draws air instead of pulling potassium permangenate or having a chlorinator in front of it. This will make for far less problems. Fleck and Clack...

I read your link. That's a lot of overkill and really most of it isn't necessary. I would recommend staying away from the big box stores for your equipment.

You don't need a Softener nearly as bad as you do an Iron Filter.

I'll second the Hydromatic suggestion. They are very good pumps, unlike anything Flotec.

I've lived in Florida for the last 35 years so things may have changed some. Back in the day in Michigan, we would go rent a steamer with a rubber hose that you could push out through the suction line and/or backpressure line if one existed and thaw the pipes that way. Worked quite well for...

The PH is a little low and the hardness being only 3 gpg is amazing. Most well water I'm familiar with is in the 12 to 17 gpg range. No worries with iron or manganese though. TDS is very low.

This stuff could be algae. Especially if the filter you have is exposed to sunlight. Algae will grow in PVC pipes in sunlight. An other thing that causes black scale is Hydrogen Sulfide which usually is accompanied by a rotten egg odor. It's not bad for you, it just smells bad. I have no...

They are common in the well business

It's no problem keeping a prime if you put the check valve or the foot valve at the far end of the suction line away from the pump. This keeps the pump and the entire suction line full of water once the pump turns off.

Doesn't sound like they know what they're doing.

Congratulations! Glad you got it all working

Two power wires to the black wires on the motor. Green is ground. It would be better if you changed the wire to 12-2 with ground. That takes the confusion out of the equation. Pressure switch is between the power and motor wires. Reversing the two blacks does nothing. The motor will still...

Wells should not pump sand. Yes those filters could very well be the reason you don't have any pressure. I guess you could put fertilizer and bug killer in that tank and let it do its job but I think the main purpose for it was to use the sequestering agent for the iron.