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The valve in this situation is definitely a safety hazard! If it were me, I would put a larger wrench on the hasp side, NOT the "nut" side, while putting some decent pressure to close it, take a hammer and give the nut, by the right side of your picture, a decent "rap". I almost guarantee that...

Just my 2 cents... BP Blaster is WAY above WD-40 in breaking free rust or corrosion. Just an observation from 40 years of doing this.

the broken flange looks like an Oatey #43539 flange (if it's a 4" drain). If it's 3" get that size. Loosen the 3 allen head screws and you should be able to twist and remove the broken flange and replace with new one. Ideally the flange should be anchored to the concrete with Tapcon screws. The...

This is in southern California. If I was back in Illinois I could just pop a line and box up from the basement and everybody would be happy. But... Accessing the water under the sink is resolved... They want me to run braided line through the cabinets to the fridge, about 10 feet away. Not a...

That was my thought. But that's what the customer wanted. She had already paid me for the original install that was up to the codes I know.

Good morning I have a customer that needs an icemaker line run to a new fridge. (No builder installed line) Now she tells me that it needs to have the stop BEHIND the fridge. If there was a leak it would be easier to reach under the kitchen sink for the stop than dragging the fridge out and...

I know. Some great mind developed the idea that a hose fitting was better than the iron pipe connection. Like the person that thought CPVC would make a great upgrade to inside home piping! 😫

Google "valve stem identification." There are a couple of good sites that can help you. If the main valve is Moen, start there first. You may be able to shoot some PB Blaster in there and work it a bit to free it up. Moen usually guarantees their parts for life. (If you're the original owner).

I would think that a "Y" fitting would be a better choice.

Yes. Where you can't pull the pipes apart more than 2" you use the "slip" type.

I'm originally from outside Chicago and have dealt with sump pumps for years (no basements in Calif) 1st It sounds like a bad check valve. 2nd Dry wells are OK for occasional rain but they need time to drain themselves. As it is the water is draining right back into the sump since the "dry...

Ahhh.. that damned CVPC pipe monster. As it gets older CVPC becomes very brittle and will crack at the slightest stress (I've had 2 in the same house break, just by closing the stops) You can try what's mentioned above or get a new 1/2" IP stop and a CPVC adaptor and glue it on. Telflon tape...

My first thought, if the AAV needed to be changed, is to just cut the pipe running at the 45 and use a Fernco fitting at the cut. That way nothing else needs to be disturbed and changing it out would be a snap in the future.

Caulking quickly and professionally take a lot of practice and learning what works for you. I like silicone caulk. But since I live in a "progressive" (yea right) state that has outlawed "MEK" (the only thing I have found that will dissolve old silicone) and now denatured alcohol (that is...

You could cut the excess off with a single edged razor blade. Then you would only have a very thin line that would be hardly noticeable. Spray the surface with something like 409, or window cleaner, as basically a lubricant so the blade slides easier. Slide the razor almost parallel to the...

Moen might replace it if you're the original owner (or tell them you are). But if you want there are 2 notches in the darker ring of your picture that may be used to hold the spout in place. You can use a spanner that would fit into the notches and unscrew it, or use a good pair of needle nose...

Depending what tools you have it shouldn't be too difficult to make something from a piece of 1/4" steel bar, maybe 1 1/2" wide. With a hacksaw, drill, and file it shouldn't be too difficult. Just make sure that where the plastic part comes through is smooth so it doesn't chafe the tube. Make a...

If the flange is in good shape I would fill in the space between the flange and tile with mortar/thinset to bring it up to the tile level and use the "baseplate" from Amazon. Not really the "professional" way but quick and easy.

BrassCraft 1/2 in. Nom Comp Inlet x 3/8 in. O.D. Comp x 1/4 in. O.D. Comp Dual Outlet Multi-Turn Valve-CR1900RX C1 - The Home Depot

Looks like a cast iron sink. The "nut" is aluminum or zinc "pot metal" which is very soft. I use a smaller drill bit (3/32" or so) and put a hole into the narrow part of the nut then use a larger drill bit (1/4") to make the hole larger and usually it cuts through the side of the nut and then...