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So the air pressure amount in the tank has no relevance? Tell him what is wrong then.

Most likely, he heard your complaint and then checked the water pressure first and then informed you that unless the pressure was regulated, the insurance company would not authorize any work. You refused the diagnosis and he went on his way (unless you wanted to pay out of pocket). A lot of...

You failed to mention that this statement was IMO.

Just exactly what does your code book say about raising the WH set temp over 120 degrees? Does it call for a TMV?

100PSI is very high (and can go higher depending on time of day). Most fixtures are rated @ 80# and that high pressure is doing damage. 1) Needs a Pressure Reducing Valve set to 50 to 60PSI 2) The PRV makes it a closed system and therefore a thermal expansion tank is needed 3) Replace...

:eek: He needs no TET on a Closed System?

I keep forgetting this is a Canadian site. Maybe your rules differ in some areas? Actually, to control legionella bacterium, the temp should be @ 142 - 143 degrees and hotter if you can afford the utility bill. And I am pretty sure WH manufacturers INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS say 120 degrees unless...

If you have a 40/60 switch (and adjusted properly), shouldn't the tank air pressure be @ 38PSI?

:eek: Have you yet to remove the tub spout and check for deposits or simply replaced it to see if that is the problem? I haven't been following all that closely but this sounds like a shotgun approach (no disrespect intended).

The thermostat(s) should never be set above 120 as scalding can occur in children and the elderly (You can cheat somewhat by raising the lower thermostat to 130 but requires being careful of which side of dead-banding the WH is on when using < This IMO only). Also, killing bacteria usually...

John, just having a discussion here, not trying to break your b@lls. The reason you seldom see a service call (IMO) is that the consumer is unaware of the need, especially if bad water is present. If the TPRV becomes encrusted with calcium say, it may freeze (pintle) and not be able to...

ADDENDUM (Fr. For I Forgot To Add) Now manufacturer's suggestions/instructions generally override code (within common sense) in most cases, correct? ... :o ... sheesh... Forgot to show source of info... -Water Safety & Flow Control Support - Helpful Tools and Resources - WATTS-

Good Point... but, the only place you would actually see one (if you could find it) is while standing next to the fire marshal at the scene of a massive explosion... :D

The TPRV DEBATE... :rolleyes: Manufacturers recommend the valve be opened during the yearly service. If it is tripped and then leaks when closed, it is fouled and may possibly be non-functional if an emergency situation occurs. It shows that the tank is filled with sediment(s), some settled...

... Dude ... :confused: At the time as I was ciphering/learning, I thought it was stated that the inspector wanted to see the primer color. And while I have you here, why do these filter companies include SCH 80 PVC pipe and fittings in the install kit if PVC is not to code within...

Correct (as I understand the principle as I am no expert here). It seems (as I read) most of the problem(s) are caused by the actual valve in the spout becoming clogged with deposits.

Is the drain valve the OEM plastic valve or a brass full-flow ball valve? If the OEM, the sediment(s) may be blocking flow but the pressurization will blow it clear.

Here is the best explanation I have found. It is from another forum so I will post the author's name but not website to give credit where due- Your style diverter is a a TEE DIVERTER (on tub spout);

Did the softener contractor have the water analyzed at that time and spec'd the WS for your hardness level, flow capacity and number of people in the house or did he just guesstimate and slam a high priced unit in? -Find Certified Water Treatment Professionals-

I am not arguing, but this is what they say- It is available in both CLEAR and BLUE. I wonder how many Brownie Points I am going to lose on this one... :(