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https://www.noelsplumbingsupply.com/ Eric at Noel's should be able to find it for you. If not, its not available any longer

Correct. I was saying IF its vented and sloped properly. Since you already addressed that issue, I didnt feel compelled to do so again.

Yep one if not both are freezing. The reason you get a "BAM" back on is because your faucet is pressure balanced. If one side or the other has frozen, you wont get water from the other. When everything is working try this. Turn off the valve to your water heater thereby shutting off all hot...

If I'm correct that the wet spot is the subfloor then I'd start where the sink drain goes into the wall inside the cabinet. You may have a cracked fitting, a bad solvent weld joint, etc. That is, if you are absolutely certain that nothing is leaking or was spilled inside the cabinet.

If it's sloped and vented properly the tub isnt going to drain into your 3" combo. One thing I'm wondering though....if that tee goes to the tub, where's the trap?

You can turn off the gas to the water heater and still leave the heat on. Look for a gas valve on the line going to the water heater itself. You can also turn off the water and leave the gas on to the water heater if its just a week or three vacation. Just dont drain the water heater. No need...

Would a 3/4"X1/4" bushing work or is the thread pattern on the 1/4" wrong?

The way Ive piped them is to put a ball valve on the outlet piping from the BFP, then a boiler drain. In the late fall, I can remove the BFP, shut off the ball valve, hook the compressor up to the boiler drain and blow out the system. The BFP sits in a heated mechanical room for the winter. In...

you're not going to gravity drain an irrigation system and get all the water out. Also, I wouldnt be comfortable just opening up the checks on my backflow preventer and assuming Ive eliminated the freeze potential. I'd blow out the system every late fall. I'd also install the BFP with unions on...

I agree with phish. Doesnt seem to be much there. In addition, looks low to my eye.

I had this problem with a UK tub and shower faucet that a friend had purchased on ebay. The only thing I could do was to solder the connections. Luckily, the threads were brass and the adapters were copper. Worked out well, but I advised my friend to stop buying foreign faucets. They just arent...

That appears to be a Blazemaster CPVC sprinkler head adapter. Looks to me like you're going to need to cut out the tee in order to replace the adapter. They do make a sprinkler head tee with metal thread insert. That might be the fitting for your application. I'm not a sprinkler fitter, but...

I found quite a few online. Google "adjustable shower arm"

If you're still looking, I'd give these guys a call. They can usually identify and find hard to find parts off of a picture. Ask for Eric or Aaron. http://www.noelsplumbingsupply.com/

The fact that you were getting alot of air and the wet area near the meter makes me think that you have a broken line. I know you said the wet area was before the meter, but that doesnt mean that the break is right there. Also, if the spigot you mentioned is only 1-1/2 ft deep, you could very...

Agreed. That looks like cast iron and not a minor crack. Either way, the only proper fix is to cut it out and replace it.

try turning it just a 1/4 turn (90 degrees) and see if that doesnt shut it off. Sounds like you have a stop broken. It still should shut off. It just wont stop at full open or full closed. Thats my guess anyways.

you'll only need a cold supply going to the water heater. Some of the Eemax heaters (the brand I am most familiar with) have an adjustable thermostat while others dont. It all depends on the model. Per code, we are not to rely on the water heater thermostat for tempered water and are required to...

Yes, you will need a thermostatic mixing valve for a sensor faucet. However, unless you have a circulating pump or a point of use water heater, it is going to take a bit for the water to get warm. While the thought of a sensor faucet has its appeal, I've never suggested one for a residential...

The first thing you're going to have to do is determine exactly where the leak originates. This is going to require you to remove more drywall. I'd do it from the laundry room side of the wall. You know the pipe is dry in the attic but water is pooling around the top of the tee and running down...