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Dunno if things are different in the UK, but it really looks like some Chinese "fancy" shower thing bought off Amazon. I highly doubt you'd ever find repair parts for it unless you can ID some type of brand, and look up the company.

I believe most codes limit 90 degree fittings to 36" above the floor, or 6" above the flood level rim of the fixture (ie the top of the sink), so no, you wouldn't be able to offset 90 right off that tee. That's why they did it with 45s in the first place.

I'd think a kitchen sink MORESO than others needs to be vented. Garbage disposals, and dishwashers would blow s-traps out rather easily. Maybe the plumber was lamenting on having to atmosphericly vent it instead of using an AAV? I hear ya here. There's rumors of big changes coming to WI...

Mice are gonna chew that up real fast.

Long sweep 90s from vertical to horizontal, or horizontal to horizontal. Normal dwv 90s for horizontal to vertical. [Different from the real tight pressure, or vent only 90s.] On the vertical, any offset 45 or less is still considered vertical.

MN uses its own plumbing code, so it'd be tough to find anyone online that could just lay it out for you. Get 3 quotes minimum. Maybe go through a general contractor, unless you plan on doing that, but also consider there's carpentry, electrical, HVAC, etc involved (I'm sure you're familiar...

How old is the house? Pre-AC, a lot of houses would have mixing valves on the toilets to prevent them from sweating. If you can see the water lines going to the toilet in the basement or crawlspace, you'd see something with both lines hooked up before it goes through the floor. They can fail...

Not all plumbing companies are so formal as to do a change order, or re-quote if they show up, and the job turns out to be easier/faster than initially thought. If they're an honest company, they'll charge you for the work, time, and parts appropriately. What that is, in your particular area no...

Yup. You are correct about the hammer arrestors. The black bits are the caps for the washer hose connections. Forward is off on the valve handles. Back is on.

Most dishwashers even have the hose high looped, strapped to the side of the dishwasher. So, the high loop you put in the cabinet is just a redundancy.

Sewer smell isn't always present in your vents. It peaks more with drain use/water flow. Could be helpful to get a sewer cleaning company, or plumbing company who does smoke tests in there. Might require some discrete holes in your walls inside cabinets if that's where the smell seems to be...

Gotta be reasons it's not in the wall now. In a corner, especially, framing can make it tricky. There'd be a lotta demo involved to figure that out, and find a spot to move it to. Walls would have to be opened up somewhere to start looking (in your cabinets or above if there's a gap to the...

Yeah, that's a cleanout access for your drains. Could very well just be a vent above; that's common. Condensation, or rain, melting ice and snow, etc. can drain down your vent system. Is it leaking out the big threaded cap, with the square, or just out that hole where the cover screw was? If...

Like CT18 suggested, it has nothing to do with the filter, and everything to do with that check valve (the thing on the top right of the loop). Whereas before, water would be able to "bounce" back through your water main when you shut off a valve, now it has no where to go, since the check, and...

Just get rid of that hot garbage. Is that 1" poly? Get yourself a 1" McDonald compression x mip fitting, and crank that on there. That's how we start water services, at least.

New dishwasher, or just a new sink? If they replaced all the dishwasher hose (black hose to and from the air gap), it really should be fine. Plenty of dishwashers don't drain into a disposal. Only reason water comes up the air gap is a clog somewhere, though. If they reused hose, maybe it's...

Water lines will leak constantly regardless of use or not (the difference wouldn't be noticeable, at least). They're always under pressure (static or dynamic; aka not in use vs in use). Now, how much they leak all depends on how bad a leak it is. Could by anywhere from a steady, lil dribble, to...

Always 3/4" before you split off 1/2" for the toilet, so get the toilet 1/2" line to a 3/4" trunk, or you can run 3/4" up to it, and split off for a sink or tub with a 3/4x1/2x1/2 tee. Then it's nice to run 3/4" to a tub or shower before reducing to 1/2", but general rule of thumb is that 1/2"...

Black thing with the red dot looks like a saddle drain from an old RO system. As long as it's capped off, shouldn't be a problem.

Those of us from the upper midwest just watch, shaking our heads ... lol