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I think it makes sense...and I also think it describes my particular situation well. My sump pump (and basin)...are located where I think things are the driest (opposite side of the basement farthest from where I think the water is most likely coming in from during a storm). I'm sure there are...

Yes this is probably what I will do long term...and like you said would definitely prevent any basin floating. The previous sump basin (which was smaller in diameter & less deep)...was cemented in. I'm installing a larger/deeper basin in the same location as the previous basin. I know the...

Most definitely...totally agree...that wouldn't be the best.

I think the one aspect that some folks/experts mention about a solid basin...is the possibility of the basin "floating" if there's not enough weight in the basin (sump pump weight + anything else). If I went with a solid basin...I was thinking of putting a thick piece of slate/flat rock at the...

Apologies if what I stated earlier was unclear. All sump pump water is discharged far enough away to not be an issue. What I was referring to in the previous statement was...as water enters the basin from the french drain 4" corrugated pipe...with a perforated sump basin...some of that water...

My home is slightly downhill from my one next door neighbor. The best I can determine...when it rains really hard (2+ inches in an hour)...plus the extra water running onto my property from my neighbor...the ground in the front & side of my home gets saturated & large amounts of standing...

Hello folks, I'm installing a french drain in my basement...and I'm sort of stuck on whether I should be using a perforated or non-perforated sump pump basin. I've looked at tons of You-Tube videos...and did lots of internet research...but all this info hasn't convinced me one way or the...

Good deal sounds good. I figured the existing anode rod was rigid...but didn't know how far I needed to remove the anode rod to inspect it properly (I think I have about 20-25 inches clearance till I hit the ceiling)...I thought the stock anode rod was longer & rigid. I have seen the...

My new water heater is a Rheem...I'm sure it has exactly the same nipples you linked. Yes I saw the little rubber flapper at the top of the dip tube & was wondering what it was for...now I know.:) I figured you would say use brass (or stainless) nipples instead. I agree...I probably should...

Are we talking the steel nipples with the plastic dielectric inserts at the cold/hot inlets at the top of the water heater? If so...what do they do in terms of government energy codes (how do they save energy)? And if these things aren't very good...what's a better product to use instead of...

I was kind of disappointed the replacement water heater I got came with a plastic drain valve. I didn't think I was buying a "cheapie" water heater (maybe I was)...or maybe many models come with the plastic drain valves these days. I guess I could replace it with brass at some point.

Thanks. Definitely room for improvement!;)

Thanks again for the links. The "Water Heater Backdrafting" link was the most helpful. Yes this issue was already mentioned/discussed in this thread (starting with post #3...and a bunch of other posts following). I already mentioned that the draft in the flue pipe is probably not the...

I read the many parts in the article you linked...not exactly sure what part you're referring to. My hot water gas furnace exhaust is also piped into the same chimney...no issues. Still not sure what this statement means "spillage at the diverter". What part is the "diverter"? Thanks

Not sure I follow 100%. Can you explain what sort of "pipe liner" you mean (where would this be installed)...and what you mean by "spillage at the diverter"? By the way...this setup is exactly the way it was for the old water heater. I made no modifications. Thanks

I would have loved to have been able to use flex lines of some sort (either the braided or copper type)...rather than soldering. But I just didn't have the clearance to use them (even the 12" flex hoses)...or at least without needing to do a lot of extra work relocating the shut off valves...

I did consider the basement air could be pretty humid (great suggestion). Since we have a lot of items stored in the basement & don't want them to get moldy/smelly...we have two dehumidifiers running all year long that I empty every 1-2 days (or when full). Basement is also semi-finished...

You're too kind!;)

Good deal...I hope they won't split. I used a 14" pipe wrench to tighten them. I'm not super big guy...so I don't think I torqued them too much...but I'm sure they're pretty snug. The first time I used only pipe dope. The 2nd time I used pipe dope & teflon tape. Adding the teflon tape...

I hear ya...hopefully not. When I did things the 2nd time around...I wanted to be sure everything was real tight...so I didn't need to do it a 3rd time. Unfortunately it sounds like I didn't need to do things the 2nd time. Lol Do you really think they might split in the future? Copper is...