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PRV? pressure relief valve? Doesn't that sense pressure on the high side (hard water)? Then open when the pressure is to high?

That would be going the wrong way (i think). I need to increase the low side pressure when it gets to low. In other words; bleed off the high pressure (hard water) when the low pressure (soft water) sides drops to low.

Sounds like a challenge to me. Lets just say, the well pump kick on at 50psi, kicks off at 60 psi. Set the bypass solenoid pressure switch to kick on at 45psi and shut off at 55 psi. I once had two air compressors with separate pressures switches to run one air tool. The air lines were hook...

Lets just say, 75% of the time the flow will not exceed 6 gpm. 85% of the time the flow will not exceed 9 gpm. 98% of the time the flow will not exceed 24 gpm. I am ok with no soft water in those high flow situations. However 2% of the time the flow will be over 24 gpm. For those 2%, is...

Here is the very crude drawing; This is the water softener I fond. It is reasonably priced for a hi flow unit. (I think) Any higher of a flow rate they get really expensive. Softener 7000 Meter 32K Grain Fleck Controls : Clean Water Store So can I send more than 25 gpm though this...

In regards to post #27; I am looking for something like an auto bypass valve, except backwards. I need one, that when the pressure is low on one side, it will open up and supply more pressure, and flow capacity to the low side. Thanks for the help,

Naveen, sorry for stealing the thread. Havasu, thanks.

How does a recirc-pump work with a tankless system? It seems to me that the water would come back cold and fire the tankless heater up all the time. Do you also use a small (5 gal) traditional water heater or do the tankless have a small tank built-in for recirculating system?

I second that, have them replace the pump, or do it yourself. It is just the float switch that that is sticking, it gets full of crude from being in the water all the time. A new pump is about $100 if you do it yourself. For tools, all you should need is a screwdriver, if it is plumbed with...

I only have one source of water, that is from my well. I am looking to put in a cistern, so that during period of extended electricity outages I can have running water without using a generator. The cistern would be empty 98% of the time. Only when commercial power goes out would i fill it...

I would like to use a water cistern for my potable water supply, during periods of extended electrical outages. The info I could find about doing this, says to start with municipality treated water. I will be using water from a private well (raw water). That source says treated water is only...

I found the symbol for ball valve, I'll use it the next time I do a drawing.

Below is a diagram of how I would like to plumb the greenhouse/ water closet/ pump house/ what-ever-you-want to-call-it. Of course it is not to scale. I drew ball valves on there but I have never seen a symbol for a ball valve, so I made up my own. I have two manifolds, similar to a PEX system...

I have another idea that is not the simplest or cheapest to implement, but probably the simplest to operate. Like I said, "not the cheapest" will be an understatement. You could put the cistern under ground. This is how they did it in the midwestern United States back in the 1800's. They...

You could use something like the heat exchanger that are used on domestic water heater when using an outdoor wood stove. Here is a link to a picture. Google Images here is another. Google Images

How much water are we talking about? How cool do you want it? If just back to room temp, you could use a radiator out of a car with a fan behind it. My grandfather did something like this, but the opposite direction. He pumped water out of the cold lake to an old copper radiator from a...

I think the empty valve should be manual. A simple hose bib would work. When the city is all done running the water, some time before they turn it on again, walk out and empty the catch. Now it is all ready to go for the next time. I can imagine waiting at home 3 days a week until the city...

I think you will still need a way to drain your catch. The catch will need to be empty each time so the flow has somewhere to go. The flow switch will need to be inline, all the water that flows into your lift pump will have to flow though the flow switch. Cody

I get accused of overkill allot :o But your point is well taken. Practical experience is better than a calculator. Especially a calcultor set up by someone to sell you plumbing fittings. If 10 gpm is a realistic number I could use 1.5" poly on every run and still get the coveted overkill...

Here is what I have figured out so far: This is going to be a multi-year project and probably push the start back to next year. Right now I have lots of time for planning, but little to do the work. (ie, I sit at my job 12 hrs a day 6 days a week and only have to do work for about half of it.)...