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Right. The bigger tank (86 gal) is just to cycle the pump less often. My worry with a CSV is that several years ago I dug up the well pipe to the house close to the well and put a T in it to run water to an outbuilding I use for a workshop. I think if I install a CSV at the house my pressure at...

I hope to know more if the lab ever gets back to me with the results but I can't help but feel if I had been doing something as simple pouring a cup of bleach down the well once a month I may have prevented the clogged pump. Yeah I do want to keep the cycles down. I didn't think a CSV would work...

Thanks. Yeah I am having the water tested but I think you are probably right about the iron. 14 years with that pump and never once thought about the need to do anything to the well. Kinda embarrassing but I never gave it any thought until there was a problem. Just turn on the shower and water...

For posterity sake: changing the pump fixed the issues. After disassembling the old pump it seems like the reason it couldn't move much water is because all the paths in the impellers and diffuses in the pump were thickly caked with hardened sludge. I'm not completely sure what it is but it is...

I have had a decrease in water pressure over several months. I suspect the pump and plan on pulling it, however I also am considering the possibility of a restriction of flow in the water pipe from the well to the house. It's black HDPE and about 150' or so and it also runs under my paved drive...

Just an update for posterity. I tapped the line and have used it to feed water to my detached building for several years without issue. It worked like a champ and I never even noticed the slight pressure difference.

Well I thank everyone for the great comments! I always enjoy learning a little more about the trades. You guys are definitely a great plumbing source. I feel more informed for this up coming project! Thanks.

There seems to be some confusion here. I have a submersible pump in the well. I assume it has to have a foot valve on it. there is no check valve anywhere else in the system. The is no pressure pump at the main dwelling just a tank and switch.

Air in the line at the detached building is an good point I think. I'm not completely sure though. It seems like the pressure tank at the house would keep pressure on the line at the detached building to keep air out.

There is no other delivery pump, Why would the pump be compromised? I have seen several systems of the same make up that have a spicket right at the well pump tapped off of that line. Beside the elevation concern I have what is the difference?

I thought about raising the press a little but I'm terrified afraid of the polybutylene pipe in my house. I have read all the stories and law suits about the stuff. I was young and dumb when I bought the house and didn't know the time bomb I had. No leaks yet but the thought of raising the...

The well line is black poly. Im figuring on a barbed tee with crimp rings. Is this the most reliable connection type?

Sorry if the drawing is confusing... but yes 30 ft elevation above the house. 13 PSI doesn't seem to bad. I don't know at what psi my switch calls the pump.... what is typical?

I have looked for a check valve at the pressure tank. Unless it is internal to the tank which I have never heard of, my assumption is the well pump has the only one. Any idea of the issue of the water pressure?

I want to add water to a detached building on my land. Trying to bring it from the existing structure would be near impossible. So I want to tap into the black poly line from the well to the house. My concern is that because of the elevation difference between the house and the detached...