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Thanks all! I will try these guys first and see how it goes.

I did find some general brass 3/4" NPT female 3/4" NPT male adapters but they only have a working pressure of 150 psi. Will that work?

If I start cutting into pipe and soldering, I could. But I was hoping to just unthread the valve, and thread on an extender. I see them all over for 1/2” but have not found anything similar for 3/4” except for garden hose adapters.

I have hydronic radiator fed by (I believe) 3/4" copper piping. Piping was put in before the floor tile was completed. After I completed the tile, the piping is now short about 1" or less. What kind of fitting would be best to close up this spacing? I'm thinking some male/female adapter that I...

I meant there are water shutoffs at both the inlet and outlet sides of the radiator. So, I could isolate the one radiator from the system and not have to drain the entire system from the boiler. Anyway, I shut both watershutoffs, cracked the radiator unions and sucked the water up with a wetvac...

I’m redoing a first floor bath with a cast iron hot water radiator in it. It has its own water shutoff on the inlet and outlet. Can I shut the inlet off and drain the radiator through the vent? I’ve been draining this way for a bit but am wondering now if this is going to work.

Update: the manifold is a left-hand thread, but the pilot tube is a right-hand thread. Tricky.

Just for other’s info, this statement is incorrect. The thermopile can be replaced separate from the burner assembly.

Yep, will give it a sharp strike to try and break it. Thanks! What is going to happen if the gas valve breaks? It must thread into the water heater so the sheet-metal of the water heater will bend? Or will the gas valve will break off it's own stud (piece that threads into the water heater)? Or...

I was wondering if it was left hand thread too, but I've looked a videos of it and haven't seen any left hand thread. But I can't budge it either way, so it sounds like I'll need to block from the back and giving it a harder crack. Will be a nervous moment...

I'm replacing my thermopile, and the manifold nut on the gas valve is TIGHT! I've reefed on it hard enough that the gas valve is flexing on the water heater and I'm afraid of going the next level. Is this a concern or can I give it full force? Suggestions? PS. Water heater is 4yrs old, no...

Thank you, I will start with this. If the thermopile needs replacing, is it possible to replace it without buying a complete burner assembly on this AO Smith GCV 40 301 unit?

I will check the voltage of the thermopile before buying anything. Where can I go to understand how the flame/thermopile should be aligned? Also, do the piezoelectric’s get worn from use and not generate a big enough spark maybe?

It's 4yrs old, but is in a weekend house so I turn it off/on each time I'm there. Now it takes a long time primed w/ the pilot lit before it will take off. Often the pilot will go out during priming. A couple times it has given the double blinking light "Thermopile voltage low".

I have an LP water heater by AO Smith (GCV 40 301). The thermopile needs to be replaced; how can I tell if I need to buy the entire burner assembly or if I can just replace the thermopile? Thanks!

W Why would the entire pilot assembly need to be changed? Are you saying the issue is something other than the thermopile?

Right, but I think you mean thermopile. I don't believe newer water heaters with an electronic gas control have a thermocouple; only a thermopile.

The pilot lights quickly. It's the time between when the pilot is lit, and the burner is ready to be ignited that takes a long time. This timing of when the burner can be lit is indicated when a light starts blinking on a panel. It takes a long time for that to start blinking AFTER the pilot...

You think it's air in the line and not an issue with the thermopile not warming as quickly as it should?

I have a second home where I turn off the water heater each time I'm not there, and start it back up when there. It's an AO Smith, LP that is 3yrs old, but used 20 times a year. Previously, to start it up, I'd go to 'Pilot' press and hold, hit the igniter a couple times and the light would start...