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The solution to avoid these voids was to use a heat gun, I had perfect results using one. I think with a torch, the pipe is becoming somewhat oval, and this is causing the voids. Also I noticed, with another brand of 1/2 inch copper pipes with a slightly lower diameter, these pipes were a bit...

Hope you'll post the result : ) I tried to tin the pipe (removed excess solder with a rag on the second attempt). Result was no voids on the pipe but two bad ones on the fitting...Here is a pic:

If it's ok with the slope of the 4" drain, and since the tub now has its own vent, you can connect the 3" toilet to the 4" drain closer to this toilet (before the wall). This will avoid the sharp turn (tub trap to the 2"). Also if you keep it like this there's a sharp turn on the 3" drain of...

I fully agree with you. According to the article I posted it's rare to have no voids at all. But there's for sure a way to reduce voids. Also I think a lot of the videos on youtube explaining how to solder have unacceptable voids (per the 30% rule).

a few months ago I soldered a lead free fitting , a drop of solder falled in the pipe coming from the bottom of the fitting. Since then I'm forcing the pipe on the bottom of the fitting to avoid this... Here's the last job, not perfect but better, not sure why. -I fully inserted the pipe in...

I'll comment, I'd like to know, what is the slope of the 4" drain ?

About the article discussing trapped flux pockets (creating voids), I had trouble reading this because english is not my first language. I think they're saying that a cap of solder is created all around the entry of the fitting, so the flux can't escape. They also said to put the flame slightly...

I did. Same result. I can try to raise the heat of the mapp and to stay only on one side of the joint then I'll see if the void is on the same side.

The TS8000 I'm using is adjustable. Nice post for the torches, I searched a lot which one to use.

I'll do this. Although I don't see what to use to wipe the excess solder, maybe the half of a fitting or 80 grit sandpaper when cold. Don't like the idea to use a rag in the connection. I know when I sanded, fluxed, heated, sanded and fluxed again it was more difficult to separate the tube from...

Would you please explain how to do this? I guess you flux and apply solder with a hot tool (which one?)Thanks

I posted the torch I'm using (the tip came with it). Yes maybe I'm overheating but I heated the tube a little bit, moved the flame all around the fitting, put the torch on the lowest setting, sometimes removing the flame ... I don't see what else I can do. In this article there's a picture of...

the flame I used for the 1st pic (in the 1st post of this thread) (mt575c torch) :

this is the torch I took (for the last pic), same setting as these two guys but put the flame a bit closer than them I think. here are the pics of my flame:

Didn't try to sweat off but when I turned the pipe inside the fitting while heating (not something easy), then cold peeled there were no voids.

it's true one side is more empty than the other... For the last picture: I first put heat all around the tube (staying 3/4" of the fitting) till I saw the flux boiling. Then constantly moved around the fitting for a longer time than the tube. (I'm not convinced moving around makes a big...

Thanks. I was cleaning the pipe and fitting with electric contact cleaner to remove any grease but stopped doing this because it made no difference for those voids. I'm not touching with bare hands and my cutter is clean, tried all sorts of sand paper, scotch brite, emery, wire brush for the...

I wiped the excess flux while heating, here is the result on a 90 elbow (fitting on the left and pipes on the right)

sorry I'm not sure to visualize all of what you're describing, maybe because I'm french and english is not my native language... I don't see the following things in your plan: - a clothe washer drain (should be 2" per code, and I now remember I was told by several plumbers it should be...